Cambodia was a blur-- We saw very little of the country and only spent a total of 4 days there.
After the trek we spent a day in Bangkok sorting our travels to Cambodia, the islands, getting our necessary laundry done and shipping stuff home. The next day we were up early again to take the bus to Cambodia. The first half of the ride was a breeze in a nice large colourful tour bus. Then we were pressured to spend the extra baht to have the tour company look after our Cambodian visas. This is a scam that guidebooks did warn us about but for convience sake we went with it. At the border we carried our backpacks a couple of humid, sandy, hot blocks to walk across the border and stand in line to be stamped.
The border town was like many border towns in the world. A little grundgy, not much to see (apart from a large casino)and mainly street market stalls. Here we climbed onto a bus for the rough part of the journey; 160 km that takes 6-10 hours of dusty road that instantly turns to mud as it mingles with your sweat.
In all honesty it wasn't too bad. The windows were all open and we lucked out and had 2 seats to oursleves so we didn't have to share sweat with our neighbour. The ride in my opinion was really interesting. This part of Cambodia was really flat and you could see for miles (like back home). The houses that occasionally lined the road were all on stilts. It would seem that the under portion was the hub of life with an occasional hamock and BBQ underneath. As we got closer to Siem Reap the sad reality of Cambodia came into view. Many of the homes were flooded even though they were on stilts. Cambodia is also home to many large snakes and crocodiles so my imagination was going wild trying to picture what goes on in these people's daily lives... so different from my own . :)
I have to say I did love seeing the many people bathing in the ditches on the side of the road. I liked the simplicity of being able to be naturally naked and get clean without the social restrictions that make up our soceity. In writing this, I realize our social restrictions for the most part work in our soceity I just appreciate seeing a different view point working well too.
We arrived late at night around 10 pm and were deposited infront of a hotel and again pressured to stay there. We vetoed this as I was sure we could find a better place and had a tuk tuk drive us to a hotel in our guidebook.
It was a lovely place called the Jasmine, with nice air con rooms (Roberta and I lucked out with huge double or queen beds to ourselves HELLO LUXURY). The hotel also had a great chill area on a terrace complete with a pool table.
The next morning we sorted our travel back to Thailiand (yeah it still wasn't finished) anbd then that afternoon we found a stoner tuk tuk driver, Mr Bee, who we nick named "Joe Joe." He took us to all the major sites of Angkor Wat, minus Angkor itself. (We were saving that for Day 2).
The Angkors were unbelievable! Words can not express being able to freely walk around something so ancient and mysterious. Angkor is on of those places in the world where you can just feel the energy. The Angkor Empire ruled for 3 centuries and began in 862. The Empire itself span from Burma to Vietnam. The vast irrigation systems allowed this area to be densely populated (100 million when London was only 50 000) thus being a large centralized power.
We visited many temples/structures at all of them the masonary was truly advanced for the time and the relief sculptures were incredible. We climbed the steep worn steps of TaKeo a pyramid 50+m built between 968-1001. We battled the jungle at Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider.) During working order this Buddhist Temple took 80 000 people to maintain it! Now the trees are growing up through the stone and in some cases breaking it apart into piles of rubble.
We finished the day at Angkor Thom (1181-1219), a walled area 12 km by 8 km (i think) that held 3 temples, Elephant, Leper, and BAYON. Bayon is one of the most amazing structures in the world! There are 216 faces of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The faces are all sculpted with realistic detail and look as if each one holds a special secret. In reality I am sure they hold many secrets as they have watched the scenes of Cambodian life for a 1000+ years. ANother 11000 figures keep the faces company and tell stories of the time from kickboxing to cockfighting.
The final part of the day we joined the hundreds of others to climb a temple on a hill and watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. Sadly the sunset was hazy and a bit spoiled by all the people so we left early. We took the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap, and to 'bar street.' Here we were on a mission to try Cambodian BBQ. Cambodian BBQ is similar to Korean BBQ in that they bring you out raw meat and you cook it, yourself, on a grill that is set in your table. This was a step above though because around the grill was a basin of soup which the meat juice drained into the create a great yellow grass vegtable broth. Spencer and I shared this meal called the (I believe) Desgusto. It included beef, chicken, squid, crocodile, and snake meat. I have to say the snake meat was my favorite. It was super tender and melted in your mouth! After dinner it was early to bed as we were going to be up by 5 am again to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Sleepy eyed on a rickety tuk tuk attached to a motorbike with a questionable driver is a great way to wake oneself up. We drove to Angkor Wat and crossed the moat at twighlight. We then sat on the banks of a pond to watch the sun creep above the Wat's three magnificent peaks and reflect the scene a second time in the waters ahead. Again. we were not alone but everyone seemed to be under a quiet spell as nature's magnificence highlighted one of Man's great archietectural achievements.
The crowd then dispersed to walk the halls of this huge building built in honour of the Hindu God, Vishnu in adition to serving as a King's funerary temple. To my delight, even though there was quite a crowd at sunrise, once we entered the archways, halls, and walkways, we felt very alone. At one point I even seperated from our little group and felt like one of those true explorers that excitedly stumbles upon something truly amazing. The shadows in the halls, crevices, and peaks were incredible. Again there was also very intricate bas reliefs. I don't know how else to describe such a beautiful place.
After the temple we went to our hotel to grab some breakfast (breakfast was free so we had to go back :) We then travelled to the "floating markets." Outside of Siem Reap is a floating village. The people who can not afford land live on boats on this lake that I believe is partially filled by the sea??? So they live on boats and have to change locations depending on the season and water levels. We drove past schools on the water where children paddle a thin boat to a bobbing classroom. The floating market themseleves were a bit of a letdown. 'Floating Market' to them meant old woman in a canoe type boat floating up to your boat and trying to sell you crackers and soda... hmmmmm not our idea of shopping. We left saying we saw it and headed back to town. We then grabbed some lunch and did some shopping. We all bought paintings representing Ankor Wat in some way. We then had dinner and I am sure went to bed by 10 pm because why??? We were travelling back to Bangkok (this time by two taxi cars) at 4am to catch a flight at 2 to an island and then a ferry to another island. (Yes that is car, van, plane, ferry in one day.... where's the train?)
Well I think that's all folks!
Today gift shopping in Bangkok, tomorrow Korea for luggage... and soon after home!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Monday, October 6, 2008
Koh Tao- Diving
We took a ferry from Kophagan with the hopes of getting our diving licenses. Yes, the flatlanders who reached the great heights of Everest were now about to go below sea level in one trip! We got to the island jumped in the back of a pick up truck (Thailand taxi) and headed for the busy part of the island.
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Thailand
Thailand has proven to be a true beach holiday destination.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
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