Cambodia was a blur-- We saw very little of the country and only spent a total of 4 days there.
After the trek we spent a day in Bangkok sorting our travels to Cambodia, the islands, getting our necessary laundry done and shipping stuff home. The next day we were up early again to take the bus to Cambodia. The first half of the ride was a breeze in a nice large colourful tour bus. Then we were pressured to spend the extra baht to have the tour company look after our Cambodian visas. This is a scam that guidebooks did warn us about but for convience sake we went with it. At the border we carried our backpacks a couple of humid, sandy, hot blocks to walk across the border and stand in line to be stamped.
The border town was like many border towns in the world. A little grundgy, not much to see (apart from a large casino)and mainly street market stalls. Here we climbed onto a bus for the rough part of the journey; 160 km that takes 6-10 hours of dusty road that instantly turns to mud as it mingles with your sweat.
In all honesty it wasn't too bad. The windows were all open and we lucked out and had 2 seats to oursleves so we didn't have to share sweat with our neighbour. The ride in my opinion was really interesting. This part of Cambodia was really flat and you could see for miles (like back home). The houses that occasionally lined the road were all on stilts. It would seem that the under portion was the hub of life with an occasional hamock and BBQ underneath. As we got closer to Siem Reap the sad reality of Cambodia came into view. Many of the homes were flooded even though they were on stilts. Cambodia is also home to many large snakes and crocodiles so my imagination was going wild trying to picture what goes on in these people's daily lives... so different from my own . :)
I have to say I did love seeing the many people bathing in the ditches on the side of the road. I liked the simplicity of being able to be naturally naked and get clean without the social restrictions that make up our soceity. In writing this, I realize our social restrictions for the most part work in our soceity I just appreciate seeing a different view point working well too.
We arrived late at night around 10 pm and were deposited infront of a hotel and again pressured to stay there. We vetoed this as I was sure we could find a better place and had a tuk tuk drive us to a hotel in our guidebook.
It was a lovely place called the Jasmine, with nice air con rooms (Roberta and I lucked out with huge double or queen beds to ourselves HELLO LUXURY). The hotel also had a great chill area on a terrace complete with a pool table.
The next morning we sorted our travel back to Thailiand (yeah it still wasn't finished) anbd then that afternoon we found a stoner tuk tuk driver, Mr Bee, who we nick named "Joe Joe." He took us to all the major sites of Angkor Wat, minus Angkor itself. (We were saving that for Day 2).
The Angkors were unbelievable! Words can not express being able to freely walk around something so ancient and mysterious. Angkor is on of those places in the world where you can just feel the energy. The Angkor Empire ruled for 3 centuries and began in 862. The Empire itself span from Burma to Vietnam. The vast irrigation systems allowed this area to be densely populated (100 million when London was only 50 000) thus being a large centralized power.
We visited many temples/structures at all of them the masonary was truly advanced for the time and the relief sculptures were incredible. We climbed the steep worn steps of TaKeo a pyramid 50+m built between 968-1001. We battled the jungle at Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider.) During working order this Buddhist Temple took 80 000 people to maintain it! Now the trees are growing up through the stone and in some cases breaking it apart into piles of rubble.
We finished the day at Angkor Thom (1181-1219), a walled area 12 km by 8 km (i think) that held 3 temples, Elephant, Leper, and BAYON. Bayon is one of the most amazing structures in the world! There are 216 faces of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The faces are all sculpted with realistic detail and look as if each one holds a special secret. In reality I am sure they hold many secrets as they have watched the scenes of Cambodian life for a 1000+ years. ANother 11000 figures keep the faces company and tell stories of the time from kickboxing to cockfighting.
The final part of the day we joined the hundreds of others to climb a temple on a hill and watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. Sadly the sunset was hazy and a bit spoiled by all the people so we left early. We took the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap, and to 'bar street.' Here we were on a mission to try Cambodian BBQ. Cambodian BBQ is similar to Korean BBQ in that they bring you out raw meat and you cook it, yourself, on a grill that is set in your table. This was a step above though because around the grill was a basin of soup which the meat juice drained into the create a great yellow grass vegtable broth. Spencer and I shared this meal called the (I believe) Desgusto. It included beef, chicken, squid, crocodile, and snake meat. I have to say the snake meat was my favorite. It was super tender and melted in your mouth! After dinner it was early to bed as we were going to be up by 5 am again to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Sleepy eyed on a rickety tuk tuk attached to a motorbike with a questionable driver is a great way to wake oneself up. We drove to Angkor Wat and crossed the moat at twighlight. We then sat on the banks of a pond to watch the sun creep above the Wat's three magnificent peaks and reflect the scene a second time in the waters ahead. Again. we were not alone but everyone seemed to be under a quiet spell as nature's magnificence highlighted one of Man's great archietectural achievements.
The crowd then dispersed to walk the halls of this huge building built in honour of the Hindu God, Vishnu in adition to serving as a King's funerary temple. To my delight, even though there was quite a crowd at sunrise, once we entered the archways, halls, and walkways, we felt very alone. At one point I even seperated from our little group and felt like one of those true explorers that excitedly stumbles upon something truly amazing. The shadows in the halls, crevices, and peaks were incredible. Again there was also very intricate bas reliefs. I don't know how else to describe such a beautiful place.
After the temple we went to our hotel to grab some breakfast (breakfast was free so we had to go back :) We then travelled to the "floating markets." Outside of Siem Reap is a floating village. The people who can not afford land live on boats on this lake that I believe is partially filled by the sea??? So they live on boats and have to change locations depending on the season and water levels. We drove past schools on the water where children paddle a thin boat to a bobbing classroom. The floating market themseleves were a bit of a letdown. 'Floating Market' to them meant old woman in a canoe type boat floating up to your boat and trying to sell you crackers and soda... hmmmmm not our idea of shopping. We left saying we saw it and headed back to town. We then grabbed some lunch and did some shopping. We all bought paintings representing Ankor Wat in some way. We then had dinner and I am sure went to bed by 10 pm because why??? We were travelling back to Bangkok (this time by two taxi cars) at 4am to catch a flight at 2 to an island and then a ferry to another island. (Yes that is car, van, plane, ferry in one day.... where's the train?)
Well I think that's all folks!
Today gift shopping in Bangkok, tomorrow Korea for luggage... and soon after home!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Monday, October 6, 2008
Koh Tao- Diving
We took a ferry from Kophagan with the hopes of getting our diving licenses. Yes, the flatlanders who reached the great heights of Everest were now about to go below sea level in one trip! We got to the island jumped in the back of a pick up truck (Thailand taxi) and headed for the busy part of the island.
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Thailand
Thailand has proven to be a true beach holiday destination.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Teahouses- The Personal Side of Everest
Teahouses are each day's journey's end. We are welcomed outside each unique home by our two lovely porters, always smiling, curly haired, Da Wa, and humble almost mute, Nim Sung Gay. Usually they have our bags already neatly laid in our double share private rooms. These rooms vary in luxury but always include a bed, mattress, blanket, and pillow. Not much action happens here (literally above 4000 m any 'action' is not reccommended) all the action takes place in the dinning room.
The dinning room is the hub of a teahouse. Along all four walls is bench like seating with colourful tibetan coqueted carpets as cushions. Tables sit infront of the benches and in the center a small wood burning stove creates warmth. After a long day's hike this is where all nationalities seek common comforts. A hot pot of lemon tea, some great food (plates of carbohydrates - no meat the whole trip due to poor storage) and an enegetic card game. Endorphone filled good cheer generally generates much laughter that trancends language barriers and the smell of sweaty feet.
On one occasion our little group mingled with the Korean entourage that planned on summitting Everest. They had yaks, 200 porters, camera equipment, and enough beatiful North Face equipment to clothe an army. They would plug in a laptop and ROberta and I wee transported back to Korea with the latest "K-pop" songs. Roberta and I did not make any good friends with the Koreans themselves but the Nepalese ambassadors that were with them were introduced to the card games "shit head" and "pig."
Another memorabe night at a tea house involved me teasing our porter Da Wa that he should dance. The outcome to my shame involved 7 Nepalese porters siging a taditional love/folk song and clapping while I had to jig around. Ohhh DEAR!! I think the German family in the corner had never seen anything like that before!
Along the trail we also made friends with others who were doing the same route as us. THere was James and Malvina from Ireland. THey gave us great advice about our upcoming THailand trip. THey were so down to Earth and shared our passion for travel/food that it was always a joy to speak with them. THen there was Kiwi, Pat, who I think was part super hero as nothing seemed to bother him. He could trek the whole day, eat lunch and then trek further the same day just to acclimatize. He was also great for a good game of cards.
The ones we bonded with the most I would have to say were our porters. Da wa and someone were always laughing about something. He played many a card game with us and was always saying midly crude things in Nepalese. ONe night I was playing cards with a group of 6 porters while Da wa tried his best to Marry me off. The most special night would have to have been the last night when Dawa invited us to his home in LUkla to meet his family.
Dawa lived on the third floor of a building in a small room. THe room consisted of a wood burning stove in a blackened corner for the kitchen a bed in the other corner and a mat on the floor. Here is wife, 11 month old, and 6 year old all lived. His daughters were adorable. His wife gave us tea and Da wa being the entertainer he is had three friends over also. At one point he literally had them all lined up and asked me or Spencer which one I should marry. He was totally joking... but what does one say?? THen the dancing/siging began me and da wa danced while everyone dang. THis time I was more successful and got one of the random boys dancing and Spencer and Sasha. It truly was a special evening. We gave our porters our gifts (things we didn't need) and then they topped us off in setiment the following morning when they gave us lucky prayer scarves. We were blessed to have such fine porters and we will never forget them!
The dinning room is the hub of a teahouse. Along all four walls is bench like seating with colourful tibetan coqueted carpets as cushions. Tables sit infront of the benches and in the center a small wood burning stove creates warmth. After a long day's hike this is where all nationalities seek common comforts. A hot pot of lemon tea, some great food (plates of carbohydrates - no meat the whole trip due to poor storage) and an enegetic card game. Endorphone filled good cheer generally generates much laughter that trancends language barriers and the smell of sweaty feet.
On one occasion our little group mingled with the Korean entourage that planned on summitting Everest. They had yaks, 200 porters, camera equipment, and enough beatiful North Face equipment to clothe an army. They would plug in a laptop and ROberta and I wee transported back to Korea with the latest "K-pop" songs. Roberta and I did not make any good friends with the Koreans themselves but the Nepalese ambassadors that were with them were introduced to the card games "shit head" and "pig."
Another memorabe night at a tea house involved me teasing our porter Da Wa that he should dance. The outcome to my shame involved 7 Nepalese porters siging a taditional love/folk song and clapping while I had to jig around. Ohhh DEAR!! I think the German family in the corner had never seen anything like that before!
Along the trail we also made friends with others who were doing the same route as us. THere was James and Malvina from Ireland. THey gave us great advice about our upcoming THailand trip. THey were so down to Earth and shared our passion for travel/food that it was always a joy to speak with them. THen there was Kiwi, Pat, who I think was part super hero as nothing seemed to bother him. He could trek the whole day, eat lunch and then trek further the same day just to acclimatize. He was also great for a good game of cards.
The ones we bonded with the most I would have to say were our porters. Da wa and someone were always laughing about something. He played many a card game with us and was always saying midly crude things in Nepalese. ONe night I was playing cards with a group of 6 porters while Da wa tried his best to Marry me off. The most special night would have to have been the last night when Dawa invited us to his home in LUkla to meet his family.
Dawa lived on the third floor of a building in a small room. THe room consisted of a wood burning stove in a blackened corner for the kitchen a bed in the other corner and a mat on the floor. Here is wife, 11 month old, and 6 year old all lived. His daughters were adorable. His wife gave us tea and Da wa being the entertainer he is had three friends over also. At one point he literally had them all lined up and asked me or Spencer which one I should marry. He was totally joking... but what does one say?? THen the dancing/siging began me and da wa danced while everyone dang. THis time I was more successful and got one of the random boys dancing and Spencer and Sasha. It truly was a special evening. We gave our porters our gifts (things we didn't need) and then they topped us off in setiment the following morning when they gave us lucky prayer scarves. We were blessed to have such fine porters and we will never forget them!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Everest Trail!
3300 m up to 5400-5600m high... which is about 10 000 steps!!!
The Everest Trail is one of those indescribable journeys. The journey was what it was truly all about for me. Day by Day, moment by moment, was all I wanted to concentrate on. It was a mind game I was playing with myself. If I let my mind think about the 6-7 hour day ahead of me or the 12 km up hill I knew I would feel more exhausted than necessary.
The beginning of the trail passes through various mountain communities. THese communities are simple rock/wood homes with wood burning stoves and outhouses. Replacing trucks are the strong backs and poor soles of the porters. SOme of these super human men can carry 200kg on their back. The cargo is often put in a woven basket base and tied tall (often taller than the men themselves) and a belt goes around their head for support. They often carry one short wooden walking stick is duel purpose and used to rest their heavy load on when they stop to break. The path itself is quite neavigateable. It goes from stoney brick at times, to horendous stairs, to dirt paths to boulders upon boulders.
During the first part of the journey the communities are broken by amazing views of valleys and flowing rocky rivers/waterfalls surrounded by lush fir tree mountains. Some of these rivers are crossed by strong suspension brideges or heart racing wood planks. The best bridge by far was the one we were escorted across by marroon robed monks in tennis shoes. All along one side of the bridge prayer flags (yellow- Earth, Red- Fire, blue- sky/watter, white-air, green - wood) blew into the fresh mountain air. Besides prayer flags we passed many buddhist stuppas, rocks with carfed or painted prayers, and prayer wheels. One morning Roberta and I were grumpily awoken by monks gonging around. hahaha
Sometimes one has to remember to take their eyes off the rocky path to enjoy thte spectacular views. Day 3 revealed snow capped peaks and trees that looked mystical with thin green hanging moss. "Eyes down" is a safety precaution. I think I tripped about 400 times a day but when I think about the flowing streams I crossed... I think my mom would have been pround of her klutz child. Loose rocks are not the only reason to look down. Mudpies of yak crap decorate the path and cause a great obstacle. of course I stepped in it but it was also a game of sorts to try and avoid it. On the yak note if the smell did not warn you they were coming (aside = sasha loved the smell) the bells around ther necks did. We let the big curly horned Yaks pass on the dangerous cliff side. They also had heavy loads. In all honesty, It seemed everyone on the mountain worked harder than us. That doesn't mean we didn't work hard, we did huff and puff up stairs, hills and over boulders.. The hardest part wasn't necessairly the steep areas but the high areas where oxygen was low and made one dizzy/ nauseous. I was so thankful I had 2 poles for balance and to push off of. When lifting one's leg became torterous. I thought of everyone I loved and took a step for them. I had the most positive atttude because of it but can't take any credit for it. All the people I know truly got me to Base camp.
Base Camp
The day of Base camp was horrendous!!! We trekked 4 hours to our lunch spot over huge boulders up and down with no grande views. We got to our place for the night ate some lunch dropped our bags and optimistically set off for our goal. 3 hours over what Roberta deems a boulder factory or a scene from the Flinstones Rock quarrey... we arrived.
Well Ram, our guide, told us we arrived. Basically, we would have had no clue. Black crushed earth that looked terrestial mixed with boulders. THe only aesthetically pleasing thing was the "Khumbu ice fall" which was a valley of white or aqua blueish ice triangles. Ram wanted to turn back as it was getting lated and it did seem like it was going to snow. I was mad though I came all this way and wanted to see a tent of an summiting expedition.
This is when Ram lied to us. He said there was nothing to see it was too early in the season. I was so MAD I turned to my porter friend, Dawa, and said that is a LIE! I have talked to others who siad there was an Italian team settign up and we walked up with a lot of the Korean team's equipment. Dawa laughs and says to me "Ok ditti (Nepali for firend)We will go I will tell the others they can turn back.
Then Dawa proceeds to run (5464 m we are at) over these boulders mixed with ice and slippery crushed rock and expects me to follow! Of course I do and make it to the tents. The italian team had about 7 tents I could see - one orange dome, a tall skinny green tent whuich was probably a bathroom, 2 blue tents, a yellow, and a large blue one for the dinning room. I met the italian man, Miguel or Manual, and shook his hand, wished him good luck climbing.
I felt silly what does one say to someone who is about to Summit Everest! I think I asked to shake his hand so I could say I did when he was famous. God only knows... he probably already is famous and I am too ignorant. He invited me in for tea but with the storn approaching I politely declined. After a couple weak pictures for such a momentous experience I went to turn back but then told Da wa to wait. I just couldn't leave without seeing the dinning room tent. I tood a picture and then got a picture of myuself the italian man and his many porters in the tent.
The momentous life experience only lasted about 6 minutes and we ran back to where Roberta, Sasha, and Ram were waiting.(Spencer was too sick to come-- he had the worst cold of his life with a little altutude sickness... he should have an award for what he did)To be honest I am not sure why we couldn't all run to the tents I know Roberta and Sasha were exhausted from altitude but I feel like they were jipped by Ram who never gave them the option. In all truth it wasn't realy fair. SO this momentous experience I haven't talked about and is a solitary joyl. Us three girls all made it to base camp so we DID IT!!! but we didn't all get to shake their hands... which is not the point... but sucks a little.
The next day we were up at 4 am and started to climb kalapartha 5600m to get a great view of Everest while the sun was rising. All four of us were teamed up. Sadly Sasha had to turn back because of altitude sickeness. To add insult to injury or in our case sickness the clouds rolled in and it began to snow. THe Elusive Everest would not be seen. How Ironic we had been hiking for 9 days and all the while the one mountain we came to see, Everest, stayed hidden behide a cloud. This mountain in some ways mocked our headaches, nausea, sweat, and tears we went through to climb it's shoulders. We only walked to 5400m to day we went higher than base camp and climbed down defeated. We then continued walking another 6 hours down starting our decent. The journey had reached its strange climax. We were proud of what we accomplished and what e pushed our bodies thorugh and reconciled with the idea that we earned that picturesque postcard of Everest.
And then it happened... the last day of hiking down we woke up early to cath a glimpse of Everest's peak. Surrounded by his protective clouds, his black face with white snow wrinkles smiled at us ... "Job Well Done Flatlanders"
The Everest Trail is one of those indescribable journeys. The journey was what it was truly all about for me. Day by Day, moment by moment, was all I wanted to concentrate on. It was a mind game I was playing with myself. If I let my mind think about the 6-7 hour day ahead of me or the 12 km up hill I knew I would feel more exhausted than necessary.
The beginning of the trail passes through various mountain communities. THese communities are simple rock/wood homes with wood burning stoves and outhouses. Replacing trucks are the strong backs and poor soles of the porters. SOme of these super human men can carry 200kg on their back. The cargo is often put in a woven basket base and tied tall (often taller than the men themselves) and a belt goes around their head for support. They often carry one short wooden walking stick is duel purpose and used to rest their heavy load on when they stop to break. The path itself is quite neavigateable. It goes from stoney brick at times, to horendous stairs, to dirt paths to boulders upon boulders.
During the first part of the journey the communities are broken by amazing views of valleys and flowing rocky rivers/waterfalls surrounded by lush fir tree mountains. Some of these rivers are crossed by strong suspension brideges or heart racing wood planks. The best bridge by far was the one we were escorted across by marroon robed monks in tennis shoes. All along one side of the bridge prayer flags (yellow- Earth, Red- Fire, blue- sky/watter, white-air, green - wood) blew into the fresh mountain air. Besides prayer flags we passed many buddhist stuppas, rocks with carfed or painted prayers, and prayer wheels. One morning Roberta and I were grumpily awoken by monks gonging around. hahaha
Sometimes one has to remember to take their eyes off the rocky path to enjoy thte spectacular views. Day 3 revealed snow capped peaks and trees that looked mystical with thin green hanging moss. "Eyes down" is a safety precaution. I think I tripped about 400 times a day but when I think about the flowing streams I crossed... I think my mom would have been pround of her klutz child. Loose rocks are not the only reason to look down. Mudpies of yak crap decorate the path and cause a great obstacle. of course I stepped in it but it was also a game of sorts to try and avoid it. On the yak note if the smell did not warn you they were coming (aside = sasha loved the smell) the bells around ther necks did. We let the big curly horned Yaks pass on the dangerous cliff side. They also had heavy loads. In all honesty, It seemed everyone on the mountain worked harder than us. That doesn't mean we didn't work hard, we did huff and puff up stairs, hills and over boulders.. The hardest part wasn't necessairly the steep areas but the high areas where oxygen was low and made one dizzy/ nauseous. I was so thankful I had 2 poles for balance and to push off of. When lifting one's leg became torterous. I thought of everyone I loved and took a step for them. I had the most positive atttude because of it but can't take any credit for it. All the people I know truly got me to Base camp.
Base Camp
The day of Base camp was horrendous!!! We trekked 4 hours to our lunch spot over huge boulders up and down with no grande views. We got to our place for the night ate some lunch dropped our bags and optimistically set off for our goal. 3 hours over what Roberta deems a boulder factory or a scene from the Flinstones Rock quarrey... we arrived.
Well Ram, our guide, told us we arrived. Basically, we would have had no clue. Black crushed earth that looked terrestial mixed with boulders. THe only aesthetically pleasing thing was the "Khumbu ice fall" which was a valley of white or aqua blueish ice triangles. Ram wanted to turn back as it was getting lated and it did seem like it was going to snow. I was mad though I came all this way and wanted to see a tent of an summiting expedition.
This is when Ram lied to us. He said there was nothing to see it was too early in the season. I was so MAD I turned to my porter friend, Dawa, and said that is a LIE! I have talked to others who siad there was an Italian team settign up and we walked up with a lot of the Korean team's equipment. Dawa laughs and says to me "Ok ditti (Nepali for firend)We will go I will tell the others they can turn back.
Then Dawa proceeds to run (5464 m we are at) over these boulders mixed with ice and slippery crushed rock and expects me to follow! Of course I do and make it to the tents. The italian team had about 7 tents I could see - one orange dome, a tall skinny green tent whuich was probably a bathroom, 2 blue tents, a yellow, and a large blue one for the dinning room. I met the italian man, Miguel or Manual, and shook his hand, wished him good luck climbing.
I felt silly what does one say to someone who is about to Summit Everest! I think I asked to shake his hand so I could say I did when he was famous. God only knows... he probably already is famous and I am too ignorant. He invited me in for tea but with the storn approaching I politely declined. After a couple weak pictures for such a momentous experience I went to turn back but then told Da wa to wait. I just couldn't leave without seeing the dinning room tent. I tood a picture and then got a picture of myuself the italian man and his many porters in the tent.
The momentous life experience only lasted about 6 minutes and we ran back to where Roberta, Sasha, and Ram were waiting.(Spencer was too sick to come-- he had the worst cold of his life with a little altutude sickness... he should have an award for what he did)To be honest I am not sure why we couldn't all run to the tents I know Roberta and Sasha were exhausted from altitude but I feel like they were jipped by Ram who never gave them the option. In all truth it wasn't realy fair. SO this momentous experience I haven't talked about and is a solitary joyl. Us three girls all made it to base camp so we DID IT!!! but we didn't all get to shake their hands... which is not the point... but sucks a little.
The next day we were up at 4 am and started to climb kalapartha 5600m to get a great view of Everest while the sun was rising. All four of us were teamed up. Sadly Sasha had to turn back because of altitude sickeness. To add insult to injury or in our case sickness the clouds rolled in and it began to snow. THe Elusive Everest would not be seen. How Ironic we had been hiking for 9 days and all the while the one mountain we came to see, Everest, stayed hidden behide a cloud. This mountain in some ways mocked our headaches, nausea, sweat, and tears we went through to climb it's shoulders. We only walked to 5400m to day we went higher than base camp and climbed down defeated. We then continued walking another 6 hours down starting our decent. The journey had reached its strange climax. We were proud of what we accomplished and what e pushed our bodies thorugh and reconciled with the idea that we earned that picturesque postcard of Everest.
And then it happened... the last day of hiking down we woke up early to cath a glimpse of Everest's peak. Surrounded by his protective clouds, his black face with white snow wrinkles smiled at us ... "Job Well Done Flatlanders"
Katmandu First impressions
Katmandu made my blood sizzle with excitement.
We arrived late at night around 11:00 pm. THe airport was tiny, made of old red brick, no carousel for lugage, broken escalator, and small fans blowing on the ceiling. It was like being in an old western movie but instead of cowboy hats traditional woven recatangular Nepali hats were sported. We lined up for our visas which we had to pay in AMerican currency (oddly no rupies).
Once we picked our bags off the floor we made our way to the enterance only to be charged at by men offerring accomodations and taxis. I was glowing with laughter... just like South America- we dodged them declining politely and beelined for the sign with our names. We jumped in a van with a broken sliding door and were off.
We snaked through dark alley ways, past tine homes, over spilled piles of bricks, 3 legged stray dogs and our favorite a pile of garbage that a stray cow as big as our van was eating from. Cows are holy in Nepal so they roam free! ASSSAHHH!
OUr hotel was behind a gate. It was beautiful 6 storey building which is about as hgh as they get in Katmandu as the city used to be a lake and the foundatons are not very strong.
The city has captured my heart with its kookiness so Check back later for more on Katmandu!
We arrived late at night around 11:00 pm. THe airport was tiny, made of old red brick, no carousel for lugage, broken escalator, and small fans blowing on the ceiling. It was like being in an old western movie but instead of cowboy hats traditional woven recatangular Nepali hats were sported. We lined up for our visas which we had to pay in AMerican currency (oddly no rupies).
Once we picked our bags off the floor we made our way to the enterance only to be charged at by men offerring accomodations and taxis. I was glowing with laughter... just like South America- we dodged them declining politely and beelined for the sign with our names. We jumped in a van with a broken sliding door and were off.
We snaked through dark alley ways, past tine homes, over spilled piles of bricks, 3 legged stray dogs and our favorite a pile of garbage that a stray cow as big as our van was eating from. Cows are holy in Nepal so they roam free! ASSSAHHH!
OUr hotel was behind a gate. It was beautiful 6 storey building which is about as hgh as they get in Katmandu as the city used to be a lake and the foundatons are not very strong.
The city has captured my heart with its kookiness so Check back later for more on Katmandu!
On the way to Katmandu
Travelling is never completely smooth. Getting to Katmandu has proven to be a little of a feat. First our plane was delayed 24 hours. Luckily, we found out the night before so we had an extra day in Xi'an. We had our Chinese guide, George, sort things out... bless him! We were able to get a free room and some meals. I emailed the trekking company, told them of our trouble and hoped for the best.
The airport hotel was interesting to say the least but at least t was a bed/pillow/ and no airport floor.
The next day at the airport we checked our huge backpacks and then only received one ticket to another destination in CHina but not onward to Katmandu. The flight only left us with an hour or so and my panic set in when I thought about trying to recheck our selves and our bags in.
I watltzed up to Customer Service and no one spoke English! I showed our tickets tried to act out "no time" and check big bags. but they weren't getting it. PANIC!! we were alread one day late for our trek which messed us up a little... two days would be catostrophic! I got them to let me use the phone to phonet trusty George who was with another tour group. BLess his heart he talked to them and got back on the phone and said "Meira Don't WOrry!" That's when I started to cry.
He had china southern fax them and said someone would meet us at the gate to get to our next plane.
Once off the plane Chinese men in pink t-shirts/ties grabbed us and drove us to the backside of the plane where the luggage was being unloaded. We were told to find our bage so we jumped the trolly lierally throwing other people's lugage off to get to our backapacks which were jammed at the bottom and in the middle. We were then driven to the terminal checked in and told to RUN through security and to the gate as fast as we could. Luckily we made it!
The airport hotel was interesting to say the least but at least t was a bed/pillow/ and no airport floor.
The next day at the airport we checked our huge backpacks and then only received one ticket to another destination in CHina but not onward to Katmandu. The flight only left us with an hour or so and my panic set in when I thought about trying to recheck our selves and our bags in.
I watltzed up to Customer Service and no one spoke English! I showed our tickets tried to act out "no time" and check big bags. but they weren't getting it. PANIC!! we were alread one day late for our trek which messed us up a little... two days would be catostrophic! I got them to let me use the phone to phonet trusty George who was with another tour group. BLess his heart he talked to them and got back on the phone and said "Meira Don't WOrry!" That's when I started to cry.
He had china southern fax them and said someone would meet us at the gate to get to our next plane.
Once off the plane Chinese men in pink t-shirts/ties grabbed us and drove us to the backside of the plane where the luggage was being unloaded. We were told to find our bage so we jumped the trolly lierally throwing other people's lugage off to get to our backapacks which were jammed at the bottom and in the middle. We were then driven to the terminal checked in and told to RUN through security and to the gate as fast as we could. Luckily we made it!
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Xi'an- Information overload!
Xi'ian has been wonderful but information overload. We have a private tour guide, George, and driver, Mr. Lee. George is a walking Chinese Encyclopedia and really wants us to learn. haha even when we are tired/exhausted bad students... for example day one after being up since 4 and travelling to Xi'an our tour began and by 5:00 we didn't care too much about the museum relics but he made us look and learn. Good teacher!
We began the day at the wall. Xi'an has a city wall and moat seperating the new and the old city. THe wall was built in 1370 and extends 13.74 km. IN the past there were 4 gates but now due to traffic there are 17 gates.
From there we had an amazing buffet lunch and drove to a Pagoda. Pagodas are those rectangular shaped buildings that are 5 7 or 13 stories tall. Most small ones are used to house a monk's cremations but this one was used to translate some buddhist teachings by the founder of Buddhism, Buddha Shakyamuni.(note Prince Siddhartha Guatama gets credit for founding Buddhism but the latter reached enlightment before)
Then we saw a Chinese history museum. With the evolution of all the Dynasty's starting right from broken pots in the Neolithic Martirarchal soceity. Finally we ended with a show of Dancing and drumming and opera like singing reminicent of the Tang Dynasty.
Day 2
We started at an excavated site of findings from a Bampo Village (Neolithic/Matriarchal). A village that exhisted 60000 years ago! We saw the outlines of their stationary tipis like houses and the pottery of the day.
THEN we saw the Terracotta WARRIORS. Asssahhh life dream number 376... ha ha really I don't know what number it was but it was a goal... and they were incredible. So the terracotta warriors number to about 8000. They were created 2200 years ago around 221 B.C. They are amazing life like soliders prolly about my height maybe a little shorter all individually designed to match either soliders of the time or the artists that created them. The generals of the group weighed an impressive 300 kg!!!They were created for the grave of the Chian (?) Dynasty's Emperor, to protect him and create an army for him in the after life. The masoleum (underground palace he was enthroned in took) 38 years and 720 000 men to build. All for one man!!! Can you imagine!!! No dust in the wind here Kansas.
That evening Roberta and I wandered around the city... saw some shopping streets and wound up on a cute coffee/bar street with weeping willow ligning the streets. THe kids enjoyed a massage and some pizza hut.
Day 3
We drove to see a Buddhist temple that held some of the ashes of Buddha Shakyamuni. THis is a huge deal to a lot of Buddha followers as it is considered a pilgrimage site. The underground temple was cool to see and the ashes were held in a little gold shrine. Roberta and I did comment though that it did not seem as huge of a pilgimage site we had imagined. I am speculating that this is possibly the nature the religion in that it is a personal quest for enlightmenet and I believe the buddhas and bodhisattavas are there to guide your journey vs being the 'be all end all' to heaven- like Jesus is.
After this we had a traditional lunch in the country side. It consisted of many plates of greasy vegetables, noodles, whole chicken soup. (Gabby we needed you here to eat the neck :) From here we made it to another masoleum of an emperor and empress together it was also undeground of a huge mountain. IT was nice but what was great about this whole day was being out in the country and seeing a little of CHina that did not consist of the city life.
There was a lot of agriculture. Corn and wheat (as well as fruit apples, pompegrantes (I closed my eyes due to clusterphobia), and persimmions). The people drive these large trucks with two wheels in the back and only one in the front. THen to make matters even more unstable they stack them so full that they stock makes the truck double in width! The houses were obviously poor by western standards but still quite large. THey were falling apart but they were made from brick so they seem decent compared to a lot of places in the world. I doubt any of the houses had plumbing and the roads weren't paved but it had a good feel to it.
Ok but that all i got.. I will be leaving to Meditate on a mountain for 16 days... so see you some time after that
XO
We began the day at the wall. Xi'an has a city wall and moat seperating the new and the old city. THe wall was built in 1370 and extends 13.74 km. IN the past there were 4 gates but now due to traffic there are 17 gates.
From there we had an amazing buffet lunch and drove to a Pagoda. Pagodas are those rectangular shaped buildings that are 5 7 or 13 stories tall. Most small ones are used to house a monk's cremations but this one was used to translate some buddhist teachings by the founder of Buddhism, Buddha Shakyamuni.(note Prince Siddhartha Guatama gets credit for founding Buddhism but the latter reached enlightment before)
Then we saw a Chinese history museum. With the evolution of all the Dynasty's starting right from broken pots in the Neolithic Martirarchal soceity. Finally we ended with a show of Dancing and drumming and opera like singing reminicent of the Tang Dynasty.
Day 2
We started at an excavated site of findings from a Bampo Village (Neolithic/Matriarchal). A village that exhisted 60000 years ago! We saw the outlines of their stationary tipis like houses and the pottery of the day.
THEN we saw the Terracotta WARRIORS. Asssahhh life dream number 376... ha ha really I don't know what number it was but it was a goal... and they were incredible. So the terracotta warriors number to about 8000. They were created 2200 years ago around 221 B.C. They are amazing life like soliders prolly about my height maybe a little shorter all individually designed to match either soliders of the time or the artists that created them. The generals of the group weighed an impressive 300 kg!!!They were created for the grave of the Chian (?) Dynasty's Emperor, to protect him and create an army for him in the after life. The masoleum (underground palace he was enthroned in took) 38 years and 720 000 men to build. All for one man!!! Can you imagine!!! No dust in the wind here Kansas.
That evening Roberta and I wandered around the city... saw some shopping streets and wound up on a cute coffee/bar street with weeping willow ligning the streets. THe kids enjoyed a massage and some pizza hut.
Day 3
We drove to see a Buddhist temple that held some of the ashes of Buddha Shakyamuni. THis is a huge deal to a lot of Buddha followers as it is considered a pilgrimage site. The underground temple was cool to see and the ashes were held in a little gold shrine. Roberta and I did comment though that it did not seem as huge of a pilgimage site we had imagined. I am speculating that this is possibly the nature the religion in that it is a personal quest for enlightmenet and I believe the buddhas and bodhisattavas are there to guide your journey vs being the 'be all end all' to heaven- like Jesus is.
After this we had a traditional lunch in the country side. It consisted of many plates of greasy vegetables, noodles, whole chicken soup. (Gabby we needed you here to eat the neck :) From here we made it to another masoleum of an emperor and empress together it was also undeground of a huge mountain. IT was nice but what was great about this whole day was being out in the country and seeing a little of CHina that did not consist of the city life.
There was a lot of agriculture. Corn and wheat (as well as fruit apples, pompegrantes (I closed my eyes due to clusterphobia), and persimmions). The people drive these large trucks with two wheels in the back and only one in the front. THen to make matters even more unstable they stack them so full that they stock makes the truck double in width! The houses were obviously poor by western standards but still quite large. THey were falling apart but they were made from brick so they seem decent compared to a lot of places in the world. I doubt any of the houses had plumbing and the roads weren't paved but it had a good feel to it.
Ok but that all i got.. I will be leaving to Meditate on a mountain for 16 days... so see you some time after that
XO
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Day 3- Great Wall
Today we saw a Ming Tomb (from the Ming Dynasty). Really though we saw a large building that was meant to house his soul while he was being judged for the afterlife. The tomb itself was apparently located underground somewhere in a cool stone like palace with two of his concubines buried beside him (27 meters underground)... now that would have been a sight!
After the tomb we went to the Great Wall! We (new group- same World Tour English Peeps) opted to do the hike vs the cable car. There were two gates one could climb the East (easier) and the West.. what did us four do?? the West of course! So 2 Km up and 100000980948092382093892083 stairs (some of which are gianormous but even though they were huge they were huge for a length of time than medium for a length of time.. there was consistency-- no Inca flatish) later we reached the highest peak. I am not complaining though because the whole experience was heart poundingly breathtaking.
The wall snakes or rather soars like a dragon's long body up and down rolling green hills. Red and Yellow colored flags flank lookout grooves. Hundreds of years ago men protected the Great Chinese Empire from the world's strongest Colonizers, the Mongolian Huns. Staring into the distance the fog was just transparent enough to see the wall continue for miles upon miles. One can only wonder how different China and all of Asia would have been without the existence of this Great Wall. One more moment in life one can reflect on the ingenuity and capability of people.
Siging off... Love you all
XOXOX
me
ps mom spencer says hi!
After the tomb we went to the Great Wall! We (new group- same World Tour English Peeps) opted to do the hike vs the cable car. There were two gates one could climb the East (easier) and the West.. what did us four do?? the West of course! So 2 Km up and 100000980948092382093892083 stairs (some of which are gianormous but even though they were huge they were huge for a length of time than medium for a length of time.. there was consistency-- no Inca flatish) later we reached the highest peak. I am not complaining though because the whole experience was heart poundingly breathtaking.
The wall snakes or rather soars like a dragon's long body up and down rolling green hills. Red and Yellow colored flags flank lookout grooves. Hundreds of years ago men protected the Great Chinese Empire from the world's strongest Colonizers, the Mongolian Huns. Staring into the distance the fog was just transparent enough to see the wall continue for miles upon miles. One can only wonder how different China and all of Asia would have been without the existence of this Great Wall. One more moment in life one can reflect on the ingenuity and capability of people.
Siging off... Love you all
XOXOX
me
ps mom spencer says hi!
Beijing Day 2
The day started with a bus pick up to all the famous sites in Beijing (excluding the Great Wall). We began the tour at Tiananmen Square.
Our lovely group consisted of our tour guide, Song (English name Forrest), us Canadians, an older Australian Couple whom provided great comic relief, an English couple who had just quit their jobs and will be travelling around the world for a year, and a gorgeous Indian couple who were both going to University in China studying Medicine. We were a great ecclectic little family.
Tiananmen Square was just like any Square in the world. A square of stone road leading up to a gianormous recangular building. The history of the place is what makes it with the cultural revolution and the protesting of the University students but to look at it was not that spectacular in my humble opinion. Large with Mao Zedong in charge. Sadly too I did not get any refresher on the signifigance and history of any of the people's republic of China which made this square more "just squarish" than as signficant as it could of / should have been... I suppose when I have a moment i should go back and brush up on this history.
From here we literally crossed the street (albeit underground) and made it to the Forbidden City. The Forbidden city is really a palace built to hold the Emperors of China thus "forbidden" to the public. This place was incredible! Built in 1406 (but since destroyed numerous times by fire and rebuilt) the enormity of it was unbelievable. There are 9 999 rooms in it all perfectly symmetrically built. 9 999 rooms because the 10000 room was for God (whom the Emperor was just beneath of Course!) All the buildings were also summetrically built with a middle axis. This was for good Fein Shui depicting harmony and balance. The whole palace screamed ROYALTY! It was enormous, there were various levels (all aligned with marble stairs/gaurd rails), the middle buildings were obviously more important due to their position. The reds, blues, greens with gold accents heightened the visual feast. There were incredible details in the ceiling paintings but also in the roof top gargoyles. Each building had a different number of tiny animal figurines on them the higher the number the greater importance of the room and who occupied it. The Emperor that lived here truly had the Royal life. For breakfast each morning he ate 100 different dishes.. though I am not sure if we can call him a glutton because he only ate two bites from each bowl for fear that it may be poisoned.
It seems the threat of death was always a worry to the Chinese Emperors. I was told that unlike most monarchs China's rulers were not decided upon bloodline. Essentially, any common man with enough power backing him could take over. Interestingly, for 2 generations of great Emperors one Empress "The Dragon lady" (the Dragon actually represents the Emperor (most powerful one) and the Pheonix the Empress) ruled the land and used these men as her figure heads. She was actually a concubine of lower status (there were about 7 levels- princesses from other lands would have had a higher rank) This dragon lady had a son and reared him/trained him to be Emperor. A Chinese rags to riches story. This Emperor in return gave his mother "The Summer Palace"
The Summer Palace was another stop on this day tour. We took a dragon boat across a beautiful lake to an almost island like paradise. There were similar style homes in square symmetirical syle floor plans. What was interesting was that the whole thing was man made. The lake was dug up and the dirt used to build the hill in which the compound was housed. THen trees from all over the world were planted to decorate the island. Naturally stunning! Stautes of the pheonix and dragon also flanked some of the more important buildings. Cheekily though the queen had the statues position switched so that the pheonix actually stood where the ruling Dragon statue should stand. Cheeky Cheeky woman... I think we could have been friends... he he.
Somewhere between all of this we also saw the Temple of Heaven. It is a huge dome shaped blue painted building. The blue signifying the heavens vs the green Earth/red royalty. The emperor came here twice a year to pray fro good harvest. Otherwise I believe it wasn't used.
The path that lead to the temple was one of the strangest experiences I have ever encountered. Chinese people lined both sides of a partly enclosed walkway (roof) enjoying a lesiurely day in the park. Only every 8 steps somehting new was happening... one woman was signing...8 steps... men were playing Asian checkerlike board game... 8 steps.. trumpet players.. 8 steps men slapping cards on to a pile and yelling... 8 steps one sixty year old man doing a ballet type of dance. It was like a strange dream where things quickly flip into a new situation.
This whole day ended at 6 where we sadly said goodbye to our new friends.. funny how much you can learn about people in a day.
That evening we went on a walk to find somehting to eat. We wound up at an outdoor street food market... ASSSAHHHH... street food is one of my favorite things to check out. I had heard that CHina would not dissappoint. Centipedes on sticks, snakes, starfish, and seahorses... all for you to try. Too bad my tummy was empty and I just couldn't do it... Spencer and I will choke somthing down before the trip is over though. The funniest part of the experience was that there was an odd ball non Chinese man behind one of the booths (think big Grecian)... we made eye contact... and he yelled at me "TESTICLES for you!" haha sorry buddy I don't want your testicles. We finally settled in a chinese restuarant ate some ridiculously oily food (I have decided I am not a fan of Chinese food-- but who knew?? ) Then on the way to the hotel we got a little lost... but no big blow outs.. and we made it home safe and sound. Finally it was bed time... gawd i am tired recapping only 43 more days to go.. haha
Our lovely group consisted of our tour guide, Song (English name Forrest), us Canadians, an older Australian Couple whom provided great comic relief, an English couple who had just quit their jobs and will be travelling around the world for a year, and a gorgeous Indian couple who were both going to University in China studying Medicine. We were a great ecclectic little family.
Tiananmen Square was just like any Square in the world. A square of stone road leading up to a gianormous recangular building. The history of the place is what makes it with the cultural revolution and the protesting of the University students but to look at it was not that spectacular in my humble opinion. Large with Mao Zedong in charge. Sadly too I did not get any refresher on the signifigance and history of any of the people's republic of China which made this square more "just squarish" than as signficant as it could of / should have been... I suppose when I have a moment i should go back and brush up on this history.
From here we literally crossed the street (albeit underground) and made it to the Forbidden City. The Forbidden city is really a palace built to hold the Emperors of China thus "forbidden" to the public. This place was incredible! Built in 1406 (but since destroyed numerous times by fire and rebuilt) the enormity of it was unbelievable. There are 9 999 rooms in it all perfectly symmetrically built. 9 999 rooms because the 10000 room was for God (whom the Emperor was just beneath of Course!) All the buildings were also summetrically built with a middle axis. This was for good Fein Shui depicting harmony and balance. The whole palace screamed ROYALTY! It was enormous, there were various levels (all aligned with marble stairs/gaurd rails), the middle buildings were obviously more important due to their position. The reds, blues, greens with gold accents heightened the visual feast. There were incredible details in the ceiling paintings but also in the roof top gargoyles. Each building had a different number of tiny animal figurines on them the higher the number the greater importance of the room and who occupied it. The Emperor that lived here truly had the Royal life. For breakfast each morning he ate 100 different dishes.. though I am not sure if we can call him a glutton because he only ate two bites from each bowl for fear that it may be poisoned.
It seems the threat of death was always a worry to the Chinese Emperors. I was told that unlike most monarchs China's rulers were not decided upon bloodline. Essentially, any common man with enough power backing him could take over. Interestingly, for 2 generations of great Emperors one Empress "The Dragon lady" (the Dragon actually represents the Emperor (most powerful one) and the Pheonix the Empress) ruled the land and used these men as her figure heads. She was actually a concubine of lower status (there were about 7 levels- princesses from other lands would have had a higher rank) This dragon lady had a son and reared him/trained him to be Emperor. A Chinese rags to riches story. This Emperor in return gave his mother "The Summer Palace"
The Summer Palace was another stop on this day tour. We took a dragon boat across a beautiful lake to an almost island like paradise. There were similar style homes in square symmetirical syle floor plans. What was interesting was that the whole thing was man made. The lake was dug up and the dirt used to build the hill in which the compound was housed. THen trees from all over the world were planted to decorate the island. Naturally stunning! Stautes of the pheonix and dragon also flanked some of the more important buildings. Cheekily though the queen had the statues position switched so that the pheonix actually stood where the ruling Dragon statue should stand. Cheeky Cheeky woman... I think we could have been friends... he he.
Somewhere between all of this we also saw the Temple of Heaven. It is a huge dome shaped blue painted building. The blue signifying the heavens vs the green Earth/red royalty. The emperor came here twice a year to pray fro good harvest. Otherwise I believe it wasn't used.
The path that lead to the temple was one of the strangest experiences I have ever encountered. Chinese people lined both sides of a partly enclosed walkway (roof) enjoying a lesiurely day in the park. Only every 8 steps somehting new was happening... one woman was signing...8 steps... men were playing Asian checkerlike board game... 8 steps.. trumpet players.. 8 steps men slapping cards on to a pile and yelling... 8 steps one sixty year old man doing a ballet type of dance. It was like a strange dream where things quickly flip into a new situation.
This whole day ended at 6 where we sadly said goodbye to our new friends.. funny how much you can learn about people in a day.
That evening we went on a walk to find somehting to eat. We wound up at an outdoor street food market... ASSSAHHHH... street food is one of my favorite things to check out. I had heard that CHina would not dissappoint. Centipedes on sticks, snakes, starfish, and seahorses... all for you to try. Too bad my tummy was empty and I just couldn't do it... Spencer and I will choke somthing down before the trip is over though. The funniest part of the experience was that there was an odd ball non Chinese man behind one of the booths (think big Grecian)... we made eye contact... and he yelled at me "TESTICLES for you!" haha sorry buddy I don't want your testicles. We finally settled in a chinese restuarant ate some ridiculously oily food (I have decided I am not a fan of Chinese food-- but who knew?? ) Then on the way to the hotel we got a little lost... but no big blow outs.. and we made it home safe and sound. Finally it was bed time... gawd i am tired recapping only 43 more days to go.. haha
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Beijing Day 1
Beijing has been a whirl wind true Keira Travel Style. We arrived at the airport safe and sound after our two hour flight from Seoul. We were all a little spent from our weekend of celebrating and saying goodbye to Korea, as well as, hello for the two new Canadians joining the adventures, my brother, Spencer and his sweet girlfriend, Sasha.
We got to the airport in Bejing and the first thing we see is a Starbucks and KFC... apparently Beijing will be a lot more Westernized than Korea! Apart from the glaring Western Franchises was a sign with our names on it. Airport pickup to our hotel. I love being taken care of. No worries and we were off. We passed the multiude of brown, yellow, and various colored 70-80's style taxi cabs and threw our oversized heay backpacks into the back of a van. The sights were exactly how I imagined large city China to be. Varied archietecture (different from Korea), Olympic banners everywhere, many cars, bicycles dashing in between vehicles, and little "taxi" bikes. Awesome!
Our hotel is three star but feels like 5 plus. Great bedding nice rooms, showers!!! SO not backpacker style. The breakfast this morning was unbelieveable. Fried noodle, egg, fried rice, strange vinegared salad like vegetables, and spring rolls.. oh and real brewed coffee!!!
I am getting ahead of myself though. Our first day consisted of us arriving about 2 pm and not really knowing what to do with ourselves as the tours were booked for the next two days. Luckily, I have read lots about Beijing quickly ran to the internet and found a couple things for us to go and do easily. We wandered in a shopping area- Silk Street and Pearl Market. A couple of silk clothing/scraves were for sale but we didn't see any pearls. Instead we walked up and down markets of knock off bags and name brand shoes where pushy Chinese people kept beckoning "Hey Lady you like my bag?... I give you good price." The English here is 400 times better than that in Korea. The kids (Spencer and Sasha) ate McDonalds saying it was a must as McDonalds sponsered the Olympics and apparently everyone had to eat it here during the Olympics. Roberta and I (equally as bad but I pretend better) enjoyed some Starbucks and we just wandered with no real plan. Best sort of travel. Saw some jade carvings, bought some amazing flower jasmine tea where you literally drink the tea with a flower in your cup.
It was getting a little dark at this point but I really wanted to see these 'Hangtons' I read about. Old ancient small stone houses, no plumbing that are trying to be preserved in the metropolis that is growing in and around the city of Beijing. We found them and were we ever glad we did. Surrounding this area was this amazing lake with weeping willows growing all around and candlelight restaruants up and down the walkway. Seriously romantic and naturally gorgeous. We spent hours walking around snapping photos. Spencer did some shopping and bought a decent looking mask though the shopping will have to end here as there is no room in our bags!!!
Roberta and I were finally getting famished so we ate some sweet and sour chicken and fried rice noodle. Surpirsingly the food seems to be quite similar to our Western idea of Chinese food... though I can't believe they eat this all the time or they would be 100000 pounds. After this we finally went back and to bed.
We got to the airport in Bejing and the first thing we see is a Starbucks and KFC... apparently Beijing will be a lot more Westernized than Korea! Apart from the glaring Western Franchises was a sign with our names on it. Airport pickup to our hotel. I love being taken care of. No worries and we were off. We passed the multiude of brown, yellow, and various colored 70-80's style taxi cabs and threw our oversized heay backpacks into the back of a van. The sights were exactly how I imagined large city China to be. Varied archietecture (different from Korea), Olympic banners everywhere, many cars, bicycles dashing in between vehicles, and little "taxi" bikes. Awesome!
Our hotel is three star but feels like 5 plus. Great bedding nice rooms, showers!!! SO not backpacker style. The breakfast this morning was unbelieveable. Fried noodle, egg, fried rice, strange vinegared salad like vegetables, and spring rolls.. oh and real brewed coffee!!!
I am getting ahead of myself though. Our first day consisted of us arriving about 2 pm and not really knowing what to do with ourselves as the tours were booked for the next two days. Luckily, I have read lots about Beijing quickly ran to the internet and found a couple things for us to go and do easily. We wandered in a shopping area- Silk Street and Pearl Market. A couple of silk clothing/scraves were for sale but we didn't see any pearls. Instead we walked up and down markets of knock off bags and name brand shoes where pushy Chinese people kept beckoning "Hey Lady you like my bag?... I give you good price." The English here is 400 times better than that in Korea. The kids (Spencer and Sasha) ate McDonalds saying it was a must as McDonalds sponsered the Olympics and apparently everyone had to eat it here during the Olympics. Roberta and I (equally as bad but I pretend better) enjoyed some Starbucks and we just wandered with no real plan. Best sort of travel. Saw some jade carvings, bought some amazing flower jasmine tea where you literally drink the tea with a flower in your cup.
It was getting a little dark at this point but I really wanted to see these 'Hangtons' I read about. Old ancient small stone houses, no plumbing that are trying to be preserved in the metropolis that is growing in and around the city of Beijing. We found them and were we ever glad we did. Surrounding this area was this amazing lake with weeping willows growing all around and candlelight restaruants up and down the walkway. Seriously romantic and naturally gorgeous. We spent hours walking around snapping photos. Spencer did some shopping and bought a decent looking mask though the shopping will have to end here as there is no room in our bags!!!
Roberta and I were finally getting famished so we ate some sweet and sour chicken and fried rice noodle. Surpirsingly the food seems to be quite similar to our Western idea of Chinese food... though I can't believe they eat this all the time or they would be 100000 pounds. After this we finally went back and to bed.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Language
Clearly this is phonetic and a poor attempt on trying to write some words down so i remember
My Japanese
Ku dai sai- please
Ori ga toe- thank you
Su mi ma sen- sorry
Doko des ka- where is it?
Eki – station
Ski – a little
Kwaii- cute
Ai shit er u- I love you
My Pitiful Korean
Anyang ha say yo- Hello
An e ga say yo- Good bye
Kam sa mi da- Thank-you
Sa rang hey- I love you
Jeek jin- Straight
Jay hey jun- left
Oo hey jun- right
Sun sang neem- teacher
Ju say yo- please
She lay ha mi da- excuse me
Odie- where
Babo- crazy
Ye pod ah- beautiful
Bosu- bus
Chu wo yo- cold
Cho un- good
Nore bang- signing room
Shi jang- market
Weh- why?
Mwol- what?
Chin cha? – really?
Cho song ha mi da- I’m sorry
Creyo- ok
Neh/anio- yes/no
More ly yo- I don’t know
Op so – I don’t have
Jo eye yo- I like it
Yogi - Here
Chogi- There
Meeguk- American
Wayguk- Foreigner
Agi- baby
Food
Bap- rice
Kimchi- fermented cabbage (everywhere)
Bibimbap- rice/veggie dish
Kimbap- Korean rice roll wrapped in seaweed
Cha- tea
Kalbi- Korean bbq meat
Mul Naenmyon- cold (ice) water noodle
Mandu- dumplings
Dok- usually sweet rice cake
Takk goggi- chicken
Cham ci – tuna
Oi- cucumber
Kam ja- potato
Bung- bread
Kopi- coffee
Ju su- juice
Mul- water
Maek chew- beer
Soju- death fermented sweet potato liquor
My Japanese
Ku dai sai- please
Ori ga toe- thank you
Su mi ma sen- sorry
Doko des ka- where is it?
Eki – station
Ski – a little
Kwaii- cute
Ai shit er u- I love you
My Pitiful Korean
Anyang ha say yo- Hello
An e ga say yo- Good bye
Kam sa mi da- Thank-you
Sa rang hey- I love you
Jeek jin- Straight
Jay hey jun- left
Oo hey jun- right
Sun sang neem- teacher
Ju say yo- please
She lay ha mi da- excuse me
Odie- where
Babo- crazy
Ye pod ah- beautiful
Bosu- bus
Chu wo yo- cold
Cho un- good
Nore bang- signing room
Shi jang- market
Weh- why?
Mwol- what?
Chin cha? – really?
Cho song ha mi da- I’m sorry
Creyo- ok
Neh/anio- yes/no
More ly yo- I don’t know
Op so – I don’t have
Jo eye yo- I like it
Yogi - Here
Chogi- There
Meeguk- American
Wayguk- Foreigner
Agi- baby
Food
Bap- rice
Kimchi- fermented cabbage (everywhere)
Bibimbap- rice/veggie dish
Kimbap- Korean rice roll wrapped in seaweed
Cha- tea
Kalbi- Korean bbq meat
Mul Naenmyon- cold (ice) water noodle
Mandu- dumplings
Dok- usually sweet rice cake
Takk goggi- chicken
Cham ci – tuna
Oi- cucumber
Kam ja- potato
Bung- bread
Kopi- coffee
Ju su- juice
Mul- water
Maek chew- beer
Soju- death fermented sweet potato liquor
Friday, August 22, 2008
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Day 3- Himeiji Castle & Day 4 Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
We were up early and headed to the train station. We easily bought our tickets and jumped aboard the bullet train to arrive in Himeiji only an hour and half later. The city itself was cute if the one large shopping street was any indication. (** Note many shopping streets are covered with an opaque high ceiling between the two rows of shops- these roads are called handorii’s…at least I think they are ☺)
We walked down the street and headed to the famous Himeji Castle!!! Himeji Castle is a castle that dates back to 1331. Of course none of the 1331 castle remains but since it’s conception many kings have redesigned and added to the complex. Wikipedia states, that the castle relatively took its present design in 1601. The actual main castle has survived constant attacks since then including WWII bombings in 1945.
“The castle has a five storey main donjon (heavily fortified central tower) and three smaller dojons, and the entire structure is surrounded by moats and defensive walls punctuated with rectangular, circular, and triangular openings for firing guns and shooting arrows. The walls of the donjon also feature ishiotoshi- openings that allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto anyone who made it past the defensive slits and was thinking of scaling the walls.” (Lonley Planet Japan- pg. 360)
Interesting facts about the castle:
One wall is made of clay and sand mixed with boiled rice water!
The picture showing metal discs is a picture of tiles with family crests engraved on them
“One of Himeji's most important defensive elements, and perhaps its most famous, is the confusing maze of paths leading to the main keep. The gates, baileys, and outer walls of the complex are organized so as to cause an approaching force to travel in a spiral pattern around the castle on their way into the keep, facing many dead ends. This allowed the intruders to be watched and fired upon from the keep during their entire approach. However, Himeji was never attacked in this manner, and so the system remains untested.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himeji_Castle
To cover unsightly nails between the boards the Japanese put beautiful metal discs (often with a family crest)
After the castle, we walked out of the grounds turned left and voila were in a true Japanese Garden! The garden, Koko-en, is composed of nine different gardens. It is not a historical garden as it was created on the grounds of samurai houses and roads but gives a great feel of a true Japanese Garden. There were miniature hills and waterfalls, large Koi fish (think goldfish on steroids), bamboo, a tea ceremony house, flowers, and beautiful maple trees.
As we were in the garden the loudest thunder I have ever heard crackled above us as lightning illuminated the sky. Old hobbles (Roberta with a sprained ankle) and myself dashed as fast as we could (not very) and out ran the storm to do a little window shopping before we caught our train home. We opted to forgo the bullet train as it massacred our wallets and took the slow train back to Hiroshima. About 4 hours later and Roberta ready to piss her pants we made it safely back to Tom’s city. We decided to have some Spanish Tapas, again this makes sense in Japan … right??? (in our defense Korean food is very much like Japanese food and any other varieties are hard to come by where we live). We borrowed a cell phone from a stranger and headed back to Tom’s to sleep promptly after Tapas.
Day 4- Shopping/ Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
We started the day with some breakfast and a coffee and decided to head to the museum while our minds were still fresh. Before, I explain the important museum I will report that shopping was fun. We didn’t buy much, were treated much nicer than in Korea, and the picture with the bag on my head is to be worn when trying on clothes so that makeup doesn’t get on the non-purchased garments.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is extremely well done. The task of conveying the brutality of the bombings is a daunting one but the people of Japan have succeeded. The museum starts off showing a history of different Japanese wars finishing with WWII and its involvement with the United States. It goes on to show letters detailing the Manhattan Project and reasons for choosing Hiroshima and Nagasaki as targets. The bomb was dropped on the Japanese in an effort to end the war without bringing the Soviet Union on side. (Hiroshima chosen because of the its military presence and lack of Allied prisoner camps) If the Soviet Union had become allies this would have increased their influence which would have subsequently decreased the United States influence as a large world power. In the end, the use of the bomb justified the large amounts of money the government was spending to create/test it, as well as, portrayed the United States as being the most powerful nation in the world… and is that not what war is all about?
The museum is filled with great visuals… a 3D map of the city before the bombing, and then the dust that lay afterward, videos from the time- trying to bandage people, chaos in crumbling buildings etc., a watch that stopped at the exact time, a wall with black rain trickling down (from the acid rains days after), a shadow burnt into a cement stair from a person that stood beside, effects of radiation on skin/gums, photographs of burnt flesh, clothes patterns burnt into flesh, and stories that went along with personal articles- such as the sandal that was the only remains left of a mother’s lost child. I read many of these stories, and watched some videos in which survivors told their stories and then I just couldn’t stomach anymore. I would look at the visual and my imagination could tell me the story for that burnt tricycle.
It was all too much. I left the museum and looked at a painting on the way out of a skeleton standing upright surrounded by ashes. This is when I began crying. The husband of the corpse stood beside her… either within the painting or on a plaque beside it read… “I am so sorry it must have been so hot.” The fireball that was released on the civilians was over one million degrees Celsius in the air and on the surface up to 5000 degrees Celsius and extended 280 meters. The blast pressure 500 meters from the hypocenter was 19 tons per square meter and thus crushed buildings and hurled people to the sky.
The sad reality of this and the objective of the museum is not solely ‘lest we never forget’ but ‘lest we never repeat history.’ The museum finishes by showing a globe with markings for all the nuclear weapons (20 000) the world presently contains. Nuclear weapons that are even more powerful then the one unleashed 63 years ago. Nuclear weapons that if unleashed and survivors remain, would create a cold icy world where few animals and species of vegetation could exist. I cynically shook my head when I read about the U.S. and Russia getting rid of a few of their bombs. I thought, ‘big deal when each of them still has enough to destroy the planet!’ Looking back now, I will still shake my head as I can’t comprehend war, but museums and monuments such as those that exist at Hiroshima, are there to inspire/motivate us to make even the smallest steps towards peace. The fire, in the ‘Peace Flame,’ will keep burning until those steps reach us to a nuclear free world.
Peace Be With You
XO
We walked down the street and headed to the famous Himeji Castle!!! Himeji Castle is a castle that dates back to 1331. Of course none of the 1331 castle remains but since it’s conception many kings have redesigned and added to the complex. Wikipedia states, that the castle relatively took its present design in 1601. The actual main castle has survived constant attacks since then including WWII bombings in 1945.
“The castle has a five storey main donjon (heavily fortified central tower) and three smaller dojons, and the entire structure is surrounded by moats and defensive walls punctuated with rectangular, circular, and triangular openings for firing guns and shooting arrows. The walls of the donjon also feature ishiotoshi- openings that allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto anyone who made it past the defensive slits and was thinking of scaling the walls.” (Lonley Planet Japan- pg. 360)
Interesting facts about the castle:
One wall is made of clay and sand mixed with boiled rice water!
The picture showing metal discs is a picture of tiles with family crests engraved on them
“One of Himeji's most important defensive elements, and perhaps its most famous, is the confusing maze of paths leading to the main keep. The gates, baileys, and outer walls of the complex are organized so as to cause an approaching force to travel in a spiral pattern around the castle on their way into the keep, facing many dead ends. This allowed the intruders to be watched and fired upon from the keep during their entire approach. However, Himeji was never attacked in this manner, and so the system remains untested.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himeji_Castle
To cover unsightly nails between the boards the Japanese put beautiful metal discs (often with a family crest)
After the castle, we walked out of the grounds turned left and voila were in a true Japanese Garden! The garden, Koko-en, is composed of nine different gardens. It is not a historical garden as it was created on the grounds of samurai houses and roads but gives a great feel of a true Japanese Garden. There were miniature hills and waterfalls, large Koi fish (think goldfish on steroids), bamboo, a tea ceremony house, flowers, and beautiful maple trees.
As we were in the garden the loudest thunder I have ever heard crackled above us as lightning illuminated the sky. Old hobbles (Roberta with a sprained ankle) and myself dashed as fast as we could (not very) and out ran the storm to do a little window shopping before we caught our train home. We opted to forgo the bullet train as it massacred our wallets and took the slow train back to Hiroshima. About 4 hours later and Roberta ready to piss her pants we made it safely back to Tom’s city. We decided to have some Spanish Tapas, again this makes sense in Japan … right??? (in our defense Korean food is very much like Japanese food and any other varieties are hard to come by where we live). We borrowed a cell phone from a stranger and headed back to Tom’s to sleep promptly after Tapas.
Day 4- Shopping/ Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
We started the day with some breakfast and a coffee and decided to head to the museum while our minds were still fresh. Before, I explain the important museum I will report that shopping was fun. We didn’t buy much, were treated much nicer than in Korea, and the picture with the bag on my head is to be worn when trying on clothes so that makeup doesn’t get on the non-purchased garments.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is extremely well done. The task of conveying the brutality of the bombings is a daunting one but the people of Japan have succeeded. The museum starts off showing a history of different Japanese wars finishing with WWII and its involvement with the United States. It goes on to show letters detailing the Manhattan Project and reasons for choosing Hiroshima and Nagasaki as targets. The bomb was dropped on the Japanese in an effort to end the war without bringing the Soviet Union on side. (Hiroshima chosen because of the its military presence and lack of Allied prisoner camps) If the Soviet Union had become allies this would have increased their influence which would have subsequently decreased the United States influence as a large world power. In the end, the use of the bomb justified the large amounts of money the government was spending to create/test it, as well as, portrayed the United States as being the most powerful nation in the world… and is that not what war is all about?
The museum is filled with great visuals… a 3D map of the city before the bombing, and then the dust that lay afterward, videos from the time- trying to bandage people, chaos in crumbling buildings etc., a watch that stopped at the exact time, a wall with black rain trickling down (from the acid rains days after), a shadow burnt into a cement stair from a person that stood beside, effects of radiation on skin/gums, photographs of burnt flesh, clothes patterns burnt into flesh, and stories that went along with personal articles- such as the sandal that was the only remains left of a mother’s lost child. I read many of these stories, and watched some videos in which survivors told their stories and then I just couldn’t stomach anymore. I would look at the visual and my imagination could tell me the story for that burnt tricycle.
It was all too much. I left the museum and looked at a painting on the way out of a skeleton standing upright surrounded by ashes. This is when I began crying. The husband of the corpse stood beside her… either within the painting or on a plaque beside it read… “I am so sorry it must have been so hot.” The fireball that was released on the civilians was over one million degrees Celsius in the air and on the surface up to 5000 degrees Celsius and extended 280 meters. The blast pressure 500 meters from the hypocenter was 19 tons per square meter and thus crushed buildings and hurled people to the sky.
The sad reality of this and the objective of the museum is not solely ‘lest we never forget’ but ‘lest we never repeat history.’ The museum finishes by showing a globe with markings for all the nuclear weapons (20 000) the world presently contains. Nuclear weapons that are even more powerful then the one unleashed 63 years ago. Nuclear weapons that if unleashed and survivors remain, would create a cold icy world where few animals and species of vegetation could exist. I cynically shook my head when I read about the U.S. and Russia getting rid of a few of their bombs. I thought, ‘big deal when each of them still has enough to destroy the planet!’ Looking back now, I will still shake my head as I can’t comprehend war, but museums and monuments such as those that exist at Hiroshima, are there to inspire/motivate us to make even the smallest steps towards peace. The fire, in the ‘Peace Flame,’ will keep burning until those steps reach us to a nuclear free world.
Peace Be With You
XO
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Japan First 2 out of 4 days
Day 1- Burning Up
First quote of the day; I turned to Roberta looked at the beads of sweat forming like raindrops on her forehead, soaked my own hand in the small of my back where a pool of water (more like a hot spring) had formed and said, “ I thought Burning in Hell was for the after life.”
Words can not describe the sort of heat that Japan has in the summer. Every time we go to tell people about wonderful Japan and get to the temperature part people smile and listen politely. I want to wipe that smile off their face and say “You don’t get it!!!” 37 degrees Celsius and 90% or higher humidity means that one is never dry!!! Everyone has sweat stains and wet hair. It is like a live ‘Zest Fully Clean’ commercial only replace the sweet aroma of soap and insert the spicy aroma of Body odour!!! I will try not to talk about the heat for the rest of this blog but it did cause deliriously giggly moments, sleepless nights (no air con), and many stops to the convenience store. These stops were disguised as opportunities to hydrate when in fact they were a guilty pleasure inducing affair of free AIR CONDITIONING!!!
The trip began with us catching the bus to the airport with our friend and coworker Blair. We got ourselves checked in, ate some Subway (This is a HUGE DELICIOUS deal to us), and boarded the plane. Stuffed and comfortable, we fell asleep only to be woken up by plane food. Now I have to admit I take a ridiculous amount of pleasure from plane food and this was no ordinary food. Oh no! This food consisted of amazing noodles, rice with seaweed, cold ginger, and root vegetables, all arranged in cute compartments. Shortly after chowing down (again), we arrived only 2 hours after take off!
We grabbed our luggage from the small Hiroshima carousel and made our way outside. In hand were email instructions as to where we needed to catch a bus. We found the buses promptly and butchered the Japanese word we were trying to sound out. We were at the correct bus but when we tried to board we were gently ushered away to an automatic machine and assisted in purchasing a ticket. We handed the bus driver money (we were much to fresh with to consider valuable) and moments later we were on a bus hoping we were heading in the direction we wished to go.
Immediately our eyes feasted on the lush surroundings. Everything was so green! The road winded through rolling hills of trees. I actually want to compare it to Alberta but it has been so long I could be a just longing. We made one stop and agreed that it couldn’t be the right stop yet as our instructions were to go down an escalator and the little building that stared back at us couldn’t of had an escalator so we continued on.
We arrived at a large department store went down an escalator and stood at the front looking for our friend Tom. Sure enough, a sweaty Tom greeted us. Relieved to have made it we were struck that we too were soaked in sweat. MMMM sweaty hugs make one feel so close. Tom put us in a cab with a card stating his address and we were off. 4 blocks and $10.00 later we arrived at his apartment.
His apartment was so cute albeit similar to a sweat box being on the 9th floor with air-conditioning that costs enough to leave one ‘cute apartmentless.’ He had great mats all on his floor and just a thin mattress to sleep on (also on the floor). It was simple but nice because his ‘bedroom’ was separated from the living room by a small sliding door, unlike my room (which I do love) but is only one large room.
We left our things and we walked only about 3 blocks and found ourselves at the Peace Park. The Peace Park is a grassless park, spotted with trees, that accent various monuments. The monuments are each dedicated to different aspects of the world’s first nuclear attack… only 63 years ago! (August 6, 1945)
The building featured in the pictures is the A-Dome. It is the building that was closest to the hypocenter of the nuclear bomb and remained standing while the rest of the city center was burnt to dust. The A-Dome served it’s chilling purpose; juxtaposed with the beauty of the river, bridges, and park one could see people’s potential for beauty and incomprehensible evil.
Besides the A-Dome, there was a monument dedicated to the Korean workers who were brought over as factory workers and killed in the blast, the children from various schools (including Sadako and a large display of paper cranes which are constantly replenished around the monument), the Memorial Centotaph with all the names of the victims, a peace bell (which we tolled for peace), and the Peace Flame (which has burned since 1964 and will continue until the world is rid of nuclear weapons).
From there we fed Tom (we still weren’t hungry from our plane feast). Then we headed to Hiroshima castle. Roberta the cripple ☺, didn’t go inside to climb the stairs but Tom and I checked it out with our cameras so Bert could live it too. Inside, there was some traditional weaponry, armour (including those to try on), and castle designs.
After the castle we headed back to Tom’s place to enjoy some convenience store grub and strange alcoholic beverages. Tom’s English friend, Ian, joined the impromptu party. The heat and the alcohol created many giggly session and brainy ideas to cool one down. After much revision we all agreed that robots that dressed you in frozen clothing was the idea that should be sold to the Japanese government. (ohhh dear ☺)
The night continued on with drinks by the river. We were met by more friends and laughed carefree at the river just opposite the Peace Dome. A strange situation indeed. From there we went to a bar for a birthday party. At this bar there was a Wii Nintendo system set up that we played. After ‘Wiing,’ we were at a Western bar, where ironically I got a lesson in Japanese from a table of Japanese boys. “I love you” is “Shit er you”… I laughed out loud and said “Excuse me???”… “Shit on me” hahhahahaha. Finally the night was capped off with some dancing in a basement club that was full of Brazilians. Apparently many Brazilians immigrate to Japan. I have yet to find out why but that is interesting eh???
Day 2; Miyajima Island
Miyajima is an island with Shinto shrines, deer, and monkeys… oh mi!
We boarded a ferry to this delightful island. As one steps off the ferry, the first to greet you are the wild deer! They come right up to you and nibble on your clothes. Don’t say you eat deer meat here. As deer to some Japanese people are considered sacred.
Walk a little farther on land and one can get an amazing view of the torri, or gate. This gate was constructed in 1168 but the current one we saw only dates to 1875 (only!). It is 16 meters high, built on 4 legs, and painted a beautiful bright red. At high tide the gate looks as if it is floating. Commoners were historically not allowed on the island and had to approach through the gate by ship to enter the shrine. The shrine is also built on the water. After our photo opt with the gate behind us, we hung out in a wooded temple and took pictures by a large red shrine dedicated to music. From there we went further up the hill.
We took two separate cable cars up the highest mountain on the island to get a view of the ocean and the city of Hiroshima. Now the whole way up I am hoping we will be able to see the monkeys I have heard so much about. At the top we exit to be greeted by these ridiculous signs about not looking the monkey’s in the eyes, not feeding the monkeys etc…. but NO monkeys! No matter, the views were incredible the blue sea was picturesque and it was worth the money spent on the cable car.
Just as we were climbing the rocks down to the cable car Tom stops to point out a monkey in the bush. I am elated and to my delight he comes out from the bush to stand on a rock about 1 meter in front of me. Possibly out of dizzy delight, or because I am just this talented I feel I loose some footing and stumble… My reaction is to put both arms out in the air, and let out an open mouthed “ahh” like a scream. WELL what do you think that monkey thought when he saw some ridiculous nut job make herself bigger, bare her teeth, and roar??? … the monkey does the predictable animal reaction… he jumps up and mimicks my exact stance. His arms are out, yellowish brown teeth are bared and beady eyes are staring right into mine….. I was frozen in fear... So many thoughts went through my head at this point… I was imagining him jumping out towards me and gnawing on my neck (Roberta imagined the same thing) and then I thought ‘I don’t know how I would fight this thing.’ In addition, my mind went back to when I gave blood to the red cross and how they asked me if I have ever handled a monkey before… How would I explain I was attacked by one! Finally I also thought about the irony in that the “Don’t look the monkey in the eyes sign is literally 2 meters away from this stand off.”
Sometime within all of these thoughts, I brought down my arms and hugged them toward myself. I turned my head to wide eyed Roberta and Tom and said “What should I do.” Roberta panickly responded “Don’t move.” So I didn’t … the monkey then backed down. His next response was to turn to leave back to the bush but not without one final cock of his head in my direction, as if to say “You crazy Waeguk (Korean for foreigner).” After the incident we laughed a lot. We are still laughing about it. I asked Tom where he was for me during this incident his reply, “I am sorry Meira, but my first aid training didn’t cover MONKEY attacks!”
After a long day of island exploring, cable car/tram riding/ferry riding, and close call monkey attacks we were spent. We had dinner at a Thai place (because that makes sense in Japan ☺, then some coffee on a cute second floor outdoor café. Here we overlooked some university students in big hair ‘flirt around.' Finally, we headed back to Tom’s to try and sleep but mostly just sweat.
First quote of the day; I turned to Roberta looked at the beads of sweat forming like raindrops on her forehead, soaked my own hand in the small of my back where a pool of water (more like a hot spring) had formed and said, “ I thought Burning in Hell was for the after life.”
Words can not describe the sort of heat that Japan has in the summer. Every time we go to tell people about wonderful Japan and get to the temperature part people smile and listen politely. I want to wipe that smile off their face and say “You don’t get it!!!” 37 degrees Celsius and 90% or higher humidity means that one is never dry!!! Everyone has sweat stains and wet hair. It is like a live ‘Zest Fully Clean’ commercial only replace the sweet aroma of soap and insert the spicy aroma of Body odour!!! I will try not to talk about the heat for the rest of this blog but it did cause deliriously giggly moments, sleepless nights (no air con), and many stops to the convenience store. These stops were disguised as opportunities to hydrate when in fact they were a guilty pleasure inducing affair of free AIR CONDITIONING!!!
The trip began with us catching the bus to the airport with our friend and coworker Blair. We got ourselves checked in, ate some Subway (This is a HUGE DELICIOUS deal to us), and boarded the plane. Stuffed and comfortable, we fell asleep only to be woken up by plane food. Now I have to admit I take a ridiculous amount of pleasure from plane food and this was no ordinary food. Oh no! This food consisted of amazing noodles, rice with seaweed, cold ginger, and root vegetables, all arranged in cute compartments. Shortly after chowing down (again), we arrived only 2 hours after take off!
We grabbed our luggage from the small Hiroshima carousel and made our way outside. In hand were email instructions as to where we needed to catch a bus. We found the buses promptly and butchered the Japanese word we were trying to sound out. We were at the correct bus but when we tried to board we were gently ushered away to an automatic machine and assisted in purchasing a ticket. We handed the bus driver money (we were much to fresh with to consider valuable) and moments later we were on a bus hoping we were heading in the direction we wished to go.
Immediately our eyes feasted on the lush surroundings. Everything was so green! The road winded through rolling hills of trees. I actually want to compare it to Alberta but it has been so long I could be a just longing. We made one stop and agreed that it couldn’t be the right stop yet as our instructions were to go down an escalator and the little building that stared back at us couldn’t of had an escalator so we continued on.
We arrived at a large department store went down an escalator and stood at the front looking for our friend Tom. Sure enough, a sweaty Tom greeted us. Relieved to have made it we were struck that we too were soaked in sweat. MMMM sweaty hugs make one feel so close. Tom put us in a cab with a card stating his address and we were off. 4 blocks and $10.00 later we arrived at his apartment.
His apartment was so cute albeit similar to a sweat box being on the 9th floor with air-conditioning that costs enough to leave one ‘cute apartmentless.’ He had great mats all on his floor and just a thin mattress to sleep on (also on the floor). It was simple but nice because his ‘bedroom’ was separated from the living room by a small sliding door, unlike my room (which I do love) but is only one large room.
We left our things and we walked only about 3 blocks and found ourselves at the Peace Park. The Peace Park is a grassless park, spotted with trees, that accent various monuments. The monuments are each dedicated to different aspects of the world’s first nuclear attack… only 63 years ago! (August 6, 1945)
The building featured in the pictures is the A-Dome. It is the building that was closest to the hypocenter of the nuclear bomb and remained standing while the rest of the city center was burnt to dust. The A-Dome served it’s chilling purpose; juxtaposed with the beauty of the river, bridges, and park one could see people’s potential for beauty and incomprehensible evil.
Besides the A-Dome, there was a monument dedicated to the Korean workers who were brought over as factory workers and killed in the blast, the children from various schools (including Sadako and a large display of paper cranes which are constantly replenished around the monument), the Memorial Centotaph with all the names of the victims, a peace bell (which we tolled for peace), and the Peace Flame (which has burned since 1964 and will continue until the world is rid of nuclear weapons).
From there we fed Tom (we still weren’t hungry from our plane feast). Then we headed to Hiroshima castle. Roberta the cripple ☺, didn’t go inside to climb the stairs but Tom and I checked it out with our cameras so Bert could live it too. Inside, there was some traditional weaponry, armour (including those to try on), and castle designs.
After the castle we headed back to Tom’s place to enjoy some convenience store grub and strange alcoholic beverages. Tom’s English friend, Ian, joined the impromptu party. The heat and the alcohol created many giggly session and brainy ideas to cool one down. After much revision we all agreed that robots that dressed you in frozen clothing was the idea that should be sold to the Japanese government. (ohhh dear ☺)
The night continued on with drinks by the river. We were met by more friends and laughed carefree at the river just opposite the Peace Dome. A strange situation indeed. From there we went to a bar for a birthday party. At this bar there was a Wii Nintendo system set up that we played. After ‘Wiing,’ we were at a Western bar, where ironically I got a lesson in Japanese from a table of Japanese boys. “I love you” is “Shit er you”… I laughed out loud and said “Excuse me???”… “Shit on me” hahhahahaha. Finally the night was capped off with some dancing in a basement club that was full of Brazilians. Apparently many Brazilians immigrate to Japan. I have yet to find out why but that is interesting eh???
Day 2; Miyajima Island
Miyajima is an island with Shinto shrines, deer, and monkeys… oh mi!
We boarded a ferry to this delightful island. As one steps off the ferry, the first to greet you are the wild deer! They come right up to you and nibble on your clothes. Don’t say you eat deer meat here. As deer to some Japanese people are considered sacred.
Walk a little farther on land and one can get an amazing view of the torri, or gate. This gate was constructed in 1168 but the current one we saw only dates to 1875 (only!). It is 16 meters high, built on 4 legs, and painted a beautiful bright red. At high tide the gate looks as if it is floating. Commoners were historically not allowed on the island and had to approach through the gate by ship to enter the shrine. The shrine is also built on the water. After our photo opt with the gate behind us, we hung out in a wooded temple and took pictures by a large red shrine dedicated to music. From there we went further up the hill.
We took two separate cable cars up the highest mountain on the island to get a view of the ocean and the city of Hiroshima. Now the whole way up I am hoping we will be able to see the monkeys I have heard so much about. At the top we exit to be greeted by these ridiculous signs about not looking the monkey’s in the eyes, not feeding the monkeys etc…. but NO monkeys! No matter, the views were incredible the blue sea was picturesque and it was worth the money spent on the cable car.
Just as we were climbing the rocks down to the cable car Tom stops to point out a monkey in the bush. I am elated and to my delight he comes out from the bush to stand on a rock about 1 meter in front of me. Possibly out of dizzy delight, or because I am just this talented I feel I loose some footing and stumble… My reaction is to put both arms out in the air, and let out an open mouthed “ahh” like a scream. WELL what do you think that monkey thought when he saw some ridiculous nut job make herself bigger, bare her teeth, and roar??? … the monkey does the predictable animal reaction… he jumps up and mimicks my exact stance. His arms are out, yellowish brown teeth are bared and beady eyes are staring right into mine….. I was frozen in fear... So many thoughts went through my head at this point… I was imagining him jumping out towards me and gnawing on my neck (Roberta imagined the same thing) and then I thought ‘I don’t know how I would fight this thing.’ In addition, my mind went back to when I gave blood to the red cross and how they asked me if I have ever handled a monkey before… How would I explain I was attacked by one! Finally I also thought about the irony in that the “Don’t look the monkey in the eyes sign is literally 2 meters away from this stand off.”
Sometime within all of these thoughts, I brought down my arms and hugged them toward myself. I turned my head to wide eyed Roberta and Tom and said “What should I do.” Roberta panickly responded “Don’t move.” So I didn’t … the monkey then backed down. His next response was to turn to leave back to the bush but not without one final cock of his head in my direction, as if to say “You crazy Waeguk (Korean for foreigner).” After the incident we laughed a lot. We are still laughing about it. I asked Tom where he was for me during this incident his reply, “I am sorry Meira, but my first aid training didn’t cover MONKEY attacks!”
After a long day of island exploring, cable car/tram riding/ferry riding, and close call monkey attacks we were spent. We had dinner at a Thai place (because that makes sense in Japan ☺, then some coffee on a cute second floor outdoor café. Here we overlooked some university students in big hair ‘flirt around.' Finally, we headed back to Tom’s to try and sleep but mostly just sweat.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Japan- Room for the Doughnut
Japan is Korea’s hip grandchild. Not in age but in attitude. I have truly fallen in love with the country. Not because of anything worldly in particular but because juxtaposed with the similar country I have been inhabiting Japan seems so fresh, vibrant, and full of possibilities.
The attitude of the Japanese is open and seems to embrace individuality. Young boys and girls walk around in large, perfectly set, stylized hair. It is like watching an 80’s punk rock band stroll the streets. To be fair, not every young person is this way. On any given Japanese street one can find Bohemian hippies, preppy cuties, studious nerds, and alas the style challenged~It is all here! Because of which, we (Westerners) are also not stared at… we are different they are OVER it!
The Japanese seem to love their rice and noodles proven by the colorful assortment of sushi and seaweed wrapped products at any local convenience store. The difference is that they have also made a space to represent us, Westerners, a huge aisle of a ridiculous amount of pastries. Tom, the English friend whom we stayed with, told us that he was once asked what he would grab for lunch, “sushi or bread?” Ohhh we are a bunch of cream puffs are we not???
The cities themselves give me an overwhelming European feel. First of all, they drive on the other side of the road. There are some imported European cars, VWs and Audis, but the majority of vehicles are Japanese box style smart cars. In addition, there are the flash movie style street cars but unfortunately I did not witness a race. Besides driving, the number one way to get around seems to be one’s bicycle. Please don’t visualize a mountain bike folks, instead, think of a 60’s style thin wheeled bike topped off with a little arm for one’s parasol umbrella (sun safe people!). There is something romantic about a cute girl in a flowing long skirt, beenie hat, on a pink bike cycling to....I can only imagine meet her boyfriend whose gorgeous hair out does her own ten fold.
The attitude of the people can only be described as a quiet respectable demeanor. The speech is phonetically two syllabic. One may expect this to be choppy, but instead it is actual spoken in a soft clear way. It is so different to Korean in that there are no whinces or whines as the people are taught to with strain emotion. Being a passionate person, I find this a little sad but it does make the spoken language something serene and peaceful. On that note, the language is probably the most difficult to learn as there are 4 alphabets one of which (the Chinese) has something like over 2 million characters!!!! I am speechless.
The physical surroundings are also gorgeous. Japan boasts an amazing amount of varied vegetation. This country gets ridiculously hot so palm trees and bamboo abound… but also sees the likes of snow so most trees are a crazy spin off of an evergreen tree. Think of an Asian version of a Christmas tree – thinner, a little shorter (but not always) with a crazy hair cut that grows in all directions (wow! leave no stereotyped unturned). These trees grow on beautiful rolling hills that are kissed by the fluffiest white clouds one has ever seen hanging out on the pitch blue canvas that is the sky. Mirroring the sky is the sea that surrounds and hugs the islands that make up Japan.
The natural beauty is not lost in the human creations of Japan. Time is spent tiling beautiful triangular shaped rooftops. The cities do have high rises but each is different and compliments the different styles of the people. There are countless independent small boutiques, coffee shops, and restaurants—that depending on their owner offers flavours from high art to back alley graffiti or caviar to hot dogs.
Japan was definitely a must see for me and I feel so fortunate that I was able to compare this rich country with Korea. Thanks Universe! (more writing will follow to explain what we actually did and saw... for now enjoy the pictures)
The attitude of the Japanese is open and seems to embrace individuality. Young boys and girls walk around in large, perfectly set, stylized hair. It is like watching an 80’s punk rock band stroll the streets. To be fair, not every young person is this way. On any given Japanese street one can find Bohemian hippies, preppy cuties, studious nerds, and alas the style challenged~It is all here! Because of which, we (Westerners) are also not stared at… we are different they are OVER it!
The Japanese seem to love their rice and noodles proven by the colorful assortment of sushi and seaweed wrapped products at any local convenience store. The difference is that they have also made a space to represent us, Westerners, a huge aisle of a ridiculous amount of pastries. Tom, the English friend whom we stayed with, told us that he was once asked what he would grab for lunch, “sushi or bread?” Ohhh we are a bunch of cream puffs are we not???
The cities themselves give me an overwhelming European feel. First of all, they drive on the other side of the road. There are some imported European cars, VWs and Audis, but the majority of vehicles are Japanese box style smart cars. In addition, there are the flash movie style street cars but unfortunately I did not witness a race. Besides driving, the number one way to get around seems to be one’s bicycle. Please don’t visualize a mountain bike folks, instead, think of a 60’s style thin wheeled bike topped off with a little arm for one’s parasol umbrella (sun safe people!). There is something romantic about a cute girl in a flowing long skirt, beenie hat, on a pink bike cycling to....I can only imagine meet her boyfriend whose gorgeous hair out does her own ten fold.
The attitude of the people can only be described as a quiet respectable demeanor. The speech is phonetically two syllabic. One may expect this to be choppy, but instead it is actual spoken in a soft clear way. It is so different to Korean in that there are no whinces or whines as the people are taught to with strain emotion. Being a passionate person, I find this a little sad but it does make the spoken language something serene and peaceful. On that note, the language is probably the most difficult to learn as there are 4 alphabets one of which (the Chinese) has something like over 2 million characters!!!! I am speechless.
The physical surroundings are also gorgeous. Japan boasts an amazing amount of varied vegetation. This country gets ridiculously hot so palm trees and bamboo abound… but also sees the likes of snow so most trees are a crazy spin off of an evergreen tree. Think of an Asian version of a Christmas tree – thinner, a little shorter (but not always) with a crazy hair cut that grows in all directions (wow! leave no stereotyped unturned). These trees grow on beautiful rolling hills that are kissed by the fluffiest white clouds one has ever seen hanging out on the pitch blue canvas that is the sky. Mirroring the sky is the sea that surrounds and hugs the islands that make up Japan.
The natural beauty is not lost in the human creations of Japan. Time is spent tiling beautiful triangular shaped rooftops. The cities do have high rises but each is different and compliments the different styles of the people. There are countless independent small boutiques, coffee shops, and restaurants—that depending on their owner offers flavours from high art to back alley graffiti or caviar to hot dogs.
Japan was definitely a must see for me and I feel so fortunate that I was able to compare this rich country with Korea. Thanks Universe! (more writing will follow to explain what we actually did and saw... for now enjoy the pictures)
A Sea Away- Seeing Korea from the Island
For me I know I need to distance myself from something in order to get perspective. I get really caught up in the happenings of whatever it may be and in order to see reality I need to step away and do some comparisons to other things I know.
Japan was that for me in the perspective of the country I have been living. I do love Korea and it will always hold a special place in my heart but as Tom put it “It isn’t really a place someone (a foreigner), really believes they will settle forever.” For me Tom’s sentiments completely resonate with me but I know are not true for everyone. Why is this?
I believe it is the attitude I feel from the Korean people. Korea has been conquered so many times that it has fought a long time to make an identity and a history for itself. Tom reminded me that Koreans originally stem from Mongolian people that moved into the peninsula and then as China invaded they were subsequently pushed back, thus becoming the Korean people we now know. Interestingly though, Korea seems to try to ignore this fact. They really promote the idea that they are the “purest blood” in the world. In the southern peninsula those from the Silla tribe claim to be the “purest blood’ because they were so isolated and didn’t mix with other bloods. Being of Canadian decent, a country full of ‘mutts’ it seems a little humorous that this is a point that derives pride. Similarly, this is the way it seems with most things in Korea. The Korean people really try to hold on to their ‘own’ for matters of pride and are fearful of letting anything else in. Foreigners are truly aliens that are stared at or not given the time of day, in cross-cultural relationships the non-Korean partner really gets a rough deal and the Korean partner receives shame from the people. To be fair, this is of course making a blanket statement and there are many exceptions but it is my general feeling. I think that taking pride in your own culture is beautiful and that opting to not adopt every western trend is admirable but I do wish there was more of an acceptance to difference.
I do also believe that in time this too will change. Korea has become a rich nation (11th I believe in the world) only within the last 50 years. I liked the way Tom put it, he said something along the lines “Inflation has caused Korea to be what it is. They used to all be poor farmers and now they have become rich. Look around the city and you can see this, (speaking of Seoul) you have shiny buildings and then back alley ways of small falling apart homes. What happens when you give a ‘redneck’ money?---he goes out and buys a flashy house (Seoul’s buildings), a nice car, and a shiny suit (he he). This is what has happened with Korea.” This may sound arrogant and that is not the message I or he is trying to get across but there is some truth to it. These things will take a while to change within Korea and I believe an open accepting idea to foreigners will come with them.
Japan was that for me in the perspective of the country I have been living. I do love Korea and it will always hold a special place in my heart but as Tom put it “It isn’t really a place someone (a foreigner), really believes they will settle forever.” For me Tom’s sentiments completely resonate with me but I know are not true for everyone. Why is this?
I believe it is the attitude I feel from the Korean people. Korea has been conquered so many times that it has fought a long time to make an identity and a history for itself. Tom reminded me that Koreans originally stem from Mongolian people that moved into the peninsula and then as China invaded they were subsequently pushed back, thus becoming the Korean people we now know. Interestingly though, Korea seems to try to ignore this fact. They really promote the idea that they are the “purest blood” in the world. In the southern peninsula those from the Silla tribe claim to be the “purest blood’ because they were so isolated and didn’t mix with other bloods. Being of Canadian decent, a country full of ‘mutts’ it seems a little humorous that this is a point that derives pride. Similarly, this is the way it seems with most things in Korea. The Korean people really try to hold on to their ‘own’ for matters of pride and are fearful of letting anything else in. Foreigners are truly aliens that are stared at or not given the time of day, in cross-cultural relationships the non-Korean partner really gets a rough deal and the Korean partner receives shame from the people. To be fair, this is of course making a blanket statement and there are many exceptions but it is my general feeling. I think that taking pride in your own culture is beautiful and that opting to not adopt every western trend is admirable but I do wish there was more of an acceptance to difference.
I do also believe that in time this too will change. Korea has become a rich nation (11th I believe in the world) only within the last 50 years. I liked the way Tom put it, he said something along the lines “Inflation has caused Korea to be what it is. They used to all be poor farmers and now they have become rich. Look around the city and you can see this, (speaking of Seoul) you have shiny buildings and then back alley ways of small falling apart homes. What happens when you give a ‘redneck’ money?---he goes out and buys a flashy house (Seoul’s buildings), a nice car, and a shiny suit (he he). This is what has happened with Korea.” This may sound arrogant and that is not the message I or he is trying to get across but there is some truth to it. These things will take a while to change within Korea and I believe an open accepting idea to foreigners will come with them.
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