I am going to go with complete honesty for this adventure both for the cultural context and the adventure itself.
Let's start back at last Wednesday night. Wednesday was a great day full of classes, yoga, and surf. Wednesday also happens to be ladies night here in Jaco. Ladies night is not the usual dollar off drinks, instead, it is free, free pour hard liquor drinks for hours. It proved to be a saucy night of bar hopping. We began the night at the 'Backyard.' The backyard consists of Hermosa Beach, the best/most dangerous surf spot reserved for the pros. Here Sean was my prince while I played Cinderella. I was hanging out on the balcony (you know how I love living on the edge.. he he) and lost my shoe and he rescued it. From there we continued dancing at a couple other bars including a dodgey monkey bar where I got my groove on with some nice prostitutes. Prostitutes in Jaco bars are the norm. For the majority, they are not Ticas, but Colombians, El Salvadorians, and Nicaraguins with quite a mafia background. Either way I was safe as there were 20 people from the school with us. At the end of the night Sean and I decided to walk home. I was jumping on curbs and dancing in the street... then the minute I started walking I lost my footing and fell in a trench. I went straight to the ground and decided to lay out to laugh off any pride that may be left and decipher how hurt I was. Sean was baffled. This lay out on the side of the street action caused my chariot in the form of a dollar taxi ride to swing around and pick us up. Needless to say, this rather hilarious moment put me out for two days worth of activities and now a week later it is still stiff. grrr.
The following Saturday after being trapped at Esculea del Mundo for two days I decided I would go with two of the nicest girls from Holland and check out small town, Puteneras. It was nice to get out of Jaco tourism and see some of real Costa Rica even if the place was a complete dive.
I arrived back at the school around 4 and knew that my two best mates, teachers from New York, were going to leave for a couple days to the Carribean side,a 5 hour drive. I was really unsure I wanted to go, it wasn't well planned, and quite expensive. In the end though, I rationalized that life is about experiences/adventures and couldn't resist.
The night began with Freddy picking us up in a white decked out surfer van. Before leaving we had to do an apparently necessary weed run. Now I have a zero tolerance policy for drugs for myself. I am personally not interested in experiencing foreign prisons and back home I value my professionalism and don't think it is worth any risk. That said, I am super liberal about what other people choose to do and I get that perhaps the risks for them are quite different and I am apparently a little prudeish. I thought ahh well whatever it is for the beach and regaee party.
4 minutes out of Jaco and my companions began rolling a joint with the light on in the back of the van. Freddy, was speeding through the dark mountain. At this point I am supremely quiet wishing I knew how to do a 'Hail Mary.' Joint is finished being rolled and all of a sudden on the side of the road there is not one, two, or three policia but 8! I can't believe my life. The kids in the back are stuffing their butt cracks and bras with the stuff while Freddy is getting out of the vehicle to go talk to the police. The police man comes over to our quiet van and looks in my window. Meanwhile I am sure the fumes of the weed is like an aural attack. I break the silence by giving a cute 'Hola.' Freddy says we are Americans which I interrupt with a 'No! Soy de Canada!. As Freddy leaves to talk to the police again, he picks up his cell phone and says 'If they ask you if you paid me say, no' I am thinking he has quickly called his dealer and warning him in case the police check his phone. Sure enough the police come back to talk to us and we answer back honestly in Spanish that we paid him to take us to the Carribean side. Apparently this wasn't the best thing to do because if they knew Freddy had money they would have taken it from him... but alas he knew on of the police and got off clean. Therefore we were off, and luckily nothing happened to us.
Surf boards on the roof, regaee music blasting... this surreal surf movie experience I am apparently starring in. We made it just outside of San JOse to the toll booth. It had begun to pour rain and a woman with black makeup running down her face starts waving at us arms flailing. Think horror movie. She told us that the Panamerican highway has been shut down due to a landslide and large accident while and ambulance roars up behind us. In Freddy's 15 years of doing this, this is the first time this has happened.
We decide to turn back and look for a place to stay in San Jose. We search hostel after hostel, finally find one but the guy was a jerk to me... and Freddy would have non of that so we had to keep searching. After an hour or so we find a place... and then the hunt for food follows a similar turn and takes at least another hour to find a place that is open. Finally, sleep welcomed us but not before I had to scream and kill the largest cockroach I have ever seen. What a great start!
The next day we leave early. We took a different route due to the road still being closed and the drive through the mountains was breathtaking. We passed a church, that every year all Costa Ricans are supposed to walk to for a pilgrimage. Once at Peurto Viajeo (spelling is probably wrong) Freddy drove us around van doors open, similar to showing off prized cattle. We stopped and said hi to everyone in town. I didn't mind so much, because the fact that we were there paying Freddy for his services is a testament to Freddy. Freddy is actually an amazing person, albeit a ridiculous chronic. He grew up on the streets of this lazy hippie town. He slept under boats, didn't go to school trying to fend for himself. Since then, he has learned to read and write, speaks amazing English, became the MC for the weekly surf competition in Jaco, became a great surfer, opened a surf school, bought his mother and siblings a small house in San jose so they are not on the street, gives back whenever he can... bringing all his friends gifts and giving change supporting anyone who is trying to make money. The man parties non-stop but is constantly thanking God we are alive, not in hospital or Jail... saying things like it is meant to be. I have the most respect for this ambitious crazy 27 year old.
That day it rained so we looked around the gift shops and then had a night of dancing and bar hopping. One of the coolest places was a local gathering where everyone was doing the salsa. I looooooooooved it!! Freddy was no where to be found all day... he was much too busy catching up with his friends... but his companion also street kid, Chino, stuck by us the whole night. We practiced our Spanish and he was an excellent host/trouble guard. Really, Chino's kind quiet nature though very similar past to Freddy... at age 10 his mom stopped giving him food... made the trip for me.
The next day more rain, we walked around... went to a different beach for dinner. We were to be back at 6pm to leave back to Jaco. After non-stop waiting on my part to do anything, stoners are not too productive, we finally arrived back at the hostel to go. Freddy, greeted us at the van and said the rain had caused the other road to be washed out too. Both highways were out. Freddy wanted to try it but we convinced him that night driving on a road he didn't really know was not wise. Alas, we were stuck one more night. More street walking and then I retired early.
It was a good choice to stay put as the beautiful drive back did have piles of mud on the side... and had it come down while driving we would have been pushed off the mountain side. Marijuana therefore saved my life twice because, because of it I had to wait around a lot and missed not one but two mudslides.
All and all, it was a trip, both literally and metaphorically but a good experience to look back on and again be thankful for the life I had while growing up and the many experiences I am afforded, including flying 'high' through Costa Rican jungle highways.
As Freddy would say;
"Ya buddy, Pura Vida! Thank God we are alive and well!"
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Saturday, July 11, 2009
The Sea Kicks My Ass
Yesterday was a big day to make up for the mishaps that was Thursday. I woke up Thursday physically still spent and found myself getting emotionally teary eyed at my somewhat harsh spanish instructor. I am going to go ahead and blame it on an allergic reaction.
Allergic reaction...yes that is right I woke up and it seems my arm and leg had ingested golf balls that were now protruding out of my body. Being a drama queen I kept envisioning that rare spider that would indefinitely find me... bite me and lay its eggs under my skin so that at a later date they could hatch out and infect the population of Canada. 'Swine Flu' will be yesterdays news 'Keira Arachniditis' coming soon.
As a result I didn't make it to surfing Thursday, instead, I found a pharmacy for some mystery cream. It seems to be working... so Canada can sleep easy tonight.
Friday, was a great day. We went to the market as a Spanish class and bought a table full of fresh fruit. It was riquisimo! Right after, I had an early yoga class followed right after by class numero dos and then surfing.
I was a little less nervous for surfing because I got up most times on Wednesday and missed Thursday. Yet alas I was mistaken, Rodriguo, hot Argentinian surf instructor, pulls me to the side for a little pep talk. 'We are going out today" "Out!!!" ahhhhhhh.... try everything once... try everything once... so I agree. We start paddling out... which is a tough ass workout... poor guy ended up pushing me and big blue (the board) from time to time.. so nice to be helpless. :)
I made it out and hung around a good long while. My first attempt ended in about a dozen somersaults under water... think drowning in a clothes washing machine, with your big pal 'blue.' I caught my breath only to loose it over and over again while I tried to make it past the break. I seriously, think I have consumed my yearly salt intake.
Round two I hung out in the sea this time taking it easy and then all of a sudden my hand starts stinging so I immediately lift it out of the water and for some reason rub it on my cheek which transfers the stinging. Next thing I know, this drama queen is wondering if she will now die not form spiders or drownings but jellyfish. Rodrigo, assures me not so. Apparently the jellyfish are tiny and their sting is as he says 'my kiss' and a great aphrodisiac. bahahha what a player... but a good one. We stayed out for an hour on the sea talking until I finally tried numero dos. This time I got up to my knees but had no upper body strength to get up. Ahh well apparently next time. ohhh Dear.
That night Rodrigo cooked BBQ for a bunch of us and I attempted to go out on the town but I am just not feeling this 'real world' party scene. I know surprising. I feel you need to send energy that 'my friends' don't think I am too lameo.
Today is Saturday, ziplined through the jungle, watched a surf competition and an amazing sunset. Laughed with Sean, my Arizona buddy. All day, no big deal.
Miss you lots
xx
Allergic reaction...yes that is right I woke up and it seems my arm and leg had ingested golf balls that were now protruding out of my body. Being a drama queen I kept envisioning that rare spider that would indefinitely find me... bite me and lay its eggs under my skin so that at a later date they could hatch out and infect the population of Canada. 'Swine Flu' will be yesterdays news 'Keira Arachniditis' coming soon.
As a result I didn't make it to surfing Thursday, instead, I found a pharmacy for some mystery cream. It seems to be working... so Canada can sleep easy tonight.
Friday, was a great day. We went to the market as a Spanish class and bought a table full of fresh fruit. It was riquisimo! Right after, I had an early yoga class followed right after by class numero dos and then surfing.
I was a little less nervous for surfing because I got up most times on Wednesday and missed Thursday. Yet alas I was mistaken, Rodriguo, hot Argentinian surf instructor, pulls me to the side for a little pep talk. 'We are going out today" "Out!!!" ahhhhhhh.... try everything once... try everything once... so I agree. We start paddling out... which is a tough ass workout... poor guy ended up pushing me and big blue (the board) from time to time.. so nice to be helpless. :)
I made it out and hung around a good long while. My first attempt ended in about a dozen somersaults under water... think drowning in a clothes washing machine, with your big pal 'blue.' I caught my breath only to loose it over and over again while I tried to make it past the break. I seriously, think I have consumed my yearly salt intake.
Round two I hung out in the sea this time taking it easy and then all of a sudden my hand starts stinging so I immediately lift it out of the water and for some reason rub it on my cheek which transfers the stinging. Next thing I know, this drama queen is wondering if she will now die not form spiders or drownings but jellyfish. Rodrigo, assures me not so. Apparently the jellyfish are tiny and their sting is as he says 'my kiss' and a great aphrodisiac. bahahha what a player... but a good one. We stayed out for an hour on the sea talking until I finally tried numero dos. This time I got up to my knees but had no upper body strength to get up. Ahh well apparently next time. ohhh Dear.
That night Rodrigo cooked BBQ for a bunch of us and I attempted to go out on the town but I am just not feeling this 'real world' party scene. I know surprising. I feel you need to send energy that 'my friends' don't think I am too lameo.
Today is Saturday, ziplined through the jungle, watched a surf competition and an amazing sunset. Laughed with Sean, my Arizona buddy. All day, no big deal.
Miss you lots
xx
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Pura Vida Costa Rica
I signed up for a school in Costa Rica for a relaxing yoga and Spanish vacation. Contrary to intention, what I am doing to my body is anything but relaxing.
I can feel muscles that previously I never knew existed. I am somewhat sleep deprieved but the physical excertion is keeping me from socializing too late in the night. Being comatos and snoring at the table will probably not win me friends.
The surfing its self is super dificil. As bunny hill is to skiing I am at about 'Mount Pleasant' in surfing. Well maybe not that bad but still weak. I have a long board the size of a semi trailer and I feel part of the wicked arm muscle pain is from lugging it around. I can get up half the time (today almost all) but spend my time in the break water vs far out in sea.
To get out in the deep you need the high class skills such as diving, turtling, paddling, balancing on the board for more than 30 secs and complete lack of fear. I doubt I will ever get out there but I will give it my best go... try everything once right. Frankly though, surfing is simulated drowning with a weight attached to your ankle for the added pleasure of a slight concusion. My father thinks I need a life jacket but when I told the others this was recommend they laughed... apparently that is so "undude" ha ha
In the evenings I twist my aching body around in awkward positions and physically shake trying to maintain them while a wading pool of my own sweat gathers beneath me. Being sweaty just creates more of a challenge because you slip off that limb you are trying to grasp on to... OMMMMMMM ha ha I think not but it is an interesting challenge all the same.
Early in the morning is Spanish class which is great. I am in a beginner class despite my attempts at cheating my way up the ladder... so it is mostly needed review.. which is excellent and helps my damaged pride from the above. So morning class, hour break, surf for 2 hours, hour break, hour spanish talking lab, hour break then hour half yoga then exhaustion.
This morning I also woke up extra early for a croc tour before the regular regime and got to touch a 16 footer... whoop whoop check that box. Really, this trip has been a complete challenge all around not giving up on the physical stuff, working through the challenges of traveling alone... all in all in the moment I may be humbled but there is a satisfaction at the end of the day knowing you stretched your limits and conqured new feats. For example, today's waves were 'double over head' which means even the break was a crazy beating... but I sucked it up and did it. It helps that my instructor is so patient with me. He is also a very hot Argentinian so I entertain the idea of faking drowning... but as I have been told the story 'Never Cry Wolf'... and it may still really happen.. ha ha I control myself.
Hasta Luego
Pura Vida
Love and Miss you
xx
I can feel muscles that previously I never knew existed. I am somewhat sleep deprieved but the physical excertion is keeping me from socializing too late in the night. Being comatos and snoring at the table will probably not win me friends.
The surfing its self is super dificil. As bunny hill is to skiing I am at about 'Mount Pleasant' in surfing. Well maybe not that bad but still weak. I have a long board the size of a semi trailer and I feel part of the wicked arm muscle pain is from lugging it around. I can get up half the time (today almost all) but spend my time in the break water vs far out in sea.
To get out in the deep you need the high class skills such as diving, turtling, paddling, balancing on the board for more than 30 secs and complete lack of fear. I doubt I will ever get out there but I will give it my best go... try everything once right. Frankly though, surfing is simulated drowning with a weight attached to your ankle for the added pleasure of a slight concusion. My father thinks I need a life jacket but when I told the others this was recommend they laughed... apparently that is so "undude" ha ha
In the evenings I twist my aching body around in awkward positions and physically shake trying to maintain them while a wading pool of my own sweat gathers beneath me. Being sweaty just creates more of a challenge because you slip off that limb you are trying to grasp on to... OMMMMMMM ha ha I think not but it is an interesting challenge all the same.
Early in the morning is Spanish class which is great. I am in a beginner class despite my attempts at cheating my way up the ladder... so it is mostly needed review.. which is excellent and helps my damaged pride from the above. So morning class, hour break, surf for 2 hours, hour break, hour spanish talking lab, hour break then hour half yoga then exhaustion.
This morning I also woke up extra early for a croc tour before the regular regime and got to touch a 16 footer... whoop whoop check that box. Really, this trip has been a complete challenge all around not giving up on the physical stuff, working through the challenges of traveling alone... all in all in the moment I may be humbled but there is a satisfaction at the end of the day knowing you stretched your limits and conqured new feats. For example, today's waves were 'double over head' which means even the break was a crazy beating... but I sucked it up and did it. It helps that my instructor is so patient with me. He is also a very hot Argentinian so I entertain the idea of faking drowning... but as I have been told the story 'Never Cry Wolf'... and it may still really happen.. ha ha I control myself.
Hasta Luego
Pura Vida
Love and Miss you
xx
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Cambodia Recap
Cambodia was a blur-- We saw very little of the country and only spent a total of 4 days there.
After the trek we spent a day in Bangkok sorting our travels to Cambodia, the islands, getting our necessary laundry done and shipping stuff home. The next day we were up early again to take the bus to Cambodia. The first half of the ride was a breeze in a nice large colourful tour bus. Then we were pressured to spend the extra baht to have the tour company look after our Cambodian visas. This is a scam that guidebooks did warn us about but for convience sake we went with it. At the border we carried our backpacks a couple of humid, sandy, hot blocks to walk across the border and stand in line to be stamped.
The border town was like many border towns in the world. A little grundgy, not much to see (apart from a large casino)and mainly street market stalls. Here we climbed onto a bus for the rough part of the journey; 160 km that takes 6-10 hours of dusty road that instantly turns to mud as it mingles with your sweat.
In all honesty it wasn't too bad. The windows were all open and we lucked out and had 2 seats to oursleves so we didn't have to share sweat with our neighbour. The ride in my opinion was really interesting. This part of Cambodia was really flat and you could see for miles (like back home). The houses that occasionally lined the road were all on stilts. It would seem that the under portion was the hub of life with an occasional hamock and BBQ underneath. As we got closer to Siem Reap the sad reality of Cambodia came into view. Many of the homes were flooded even though they were on stilts. Cambodia is also home to many large snakes and crocodiles so my imagination was going wild trying to picture what goes on in these people's daily lives... so different from my own . :)
I have to say I did love seeing the many people bathing in the ditches on the side of the road. I liked the simplicity of being able to be naturally naked and get clean without the social restrictions that make up our soceity. In writing this, I realize our social restrictions for the most part work in our soceity I just appreciate seeing a different view point working well too.
We arrived late at night around 10 pm and were deposited infront of a hotel and again pressured to stay there. We vetoed this as I was sure we could find a better place and had a tuk tuk drive us to a hotel in our guidebook.
It was a lovely place called the Jasmine, with nice air con rooms (Roberta and I lucked out with huge double or queen beds to ourselves HELLO LUXURY). The hotel also had a great chill area on a terrace complete with a pool table.
The next morning we sorted our travel back to Thailiand (yeah it still wasn't finished) anbd then that afternoon we found a stoner tuk tuk driver, Mr Bee, who we nick named "Joe Joe." He took us to all the major sites of Angkor Wat, minus Angkor itself. (We were saving that for Day 2).
The Angkors were unbelievable! Words can not express being able to freely walk around something so ancient and mysterious. Angkor is on of those places in the world where you can just feel the energy. The Angkor Empire ruled for 3 centuries and began in 862. The Empire itself span from Burma to Vietnam. The vast irrigation systems allowed this area to be densely populated (100 million when London was only 50 000) thus being a large centralized power.
We visited many temples/structures at all of them the masonary was truly advanced for the time and the relief sculptures were incredible. We climbed the steep worn steps of TaKeo a pyramid 50+m built between 968-1001. We battled the jungle at Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider.) During working order this Buddhist Temple took 80 000 people to maintain it! Now the trees are growing up through the stone and in some cases breaking it apart into piles of rubble.
We finished the day at Angkor Thom (1181-1219), a walled area 12 km by 8 km (i think) that held 3 temples, Elephant, Leper, and BAYON. Bayon is one of the most amazing structures in the world! There are 216 faces of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The faces are all sculpted with realistic detail and look as if each one holds a special secret. In reality I am sure they hold many secrets as they have watched the scenes of Cambodian life for a 1000+ years. ANother 11000 figures keep the faces company and tell stories of the time from kickboxing to cockfighting.
The final part of the day we joined the hundreds of others to climb a temple on a hill and watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. Sadly the sunset was hazy and a bit spoiled by all the people so we left early. We took the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap, and to 'bar street.' Here we were on a mission to try Cambodian BBQ. Cambodian BBQ is similar to Korean BBQ in that they bring you out raw meat and you cook it, yourself, on a grill that is set in your table. This was a step above though because around the grill was a basin of soup which the meat juice drained into the create a great yellow grass vegtable broth. Spencer and I shared this meal called the (I believe) Desgusto. It included beef, chicken, squid, crocodile, and snake meat. I have to say the snake meat was my favorite. It was super tender and melted in your mouth! After dinner it was early to bed as we were going to be up by 5 am again to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Sleepy eyed on a rickety tuk tuk attached to a motorbike with a questionable driver is a great way to wake oneself up. We drove to Angkor Wat and crossed the moat at twighlight. We then sat on the banks of a pond to watch the sun creep above the Wat's three magnificent peaks and reflect the scene a second time in the waters ahead. Again. we were not alone but everyone seemed to be under a quiet spell as nature's magnificence highlighted one of Man's great archietectural achievements.
The crowd then dispersed to walk the halls of this huge building built in honour of the Hindu God, Vishnu in adition to serving as a King's funerary temple. To my delight, even though there was quite a crowd at sunrise, once we entered the archways, halls, and walkways, we felt very alone. At one point I even seperated from our little group and felt like one of those true explorers that excitedly stumbles upon something truly amazing. The shadows in the halls, crevices, and peaks were incredible. Again there was also very intricate bas reliefs. I don't know how else to describe such a beautiful place.
After the temple we went to our hotel to grab some breakfast (breakfast was free so we had to go back :) We then travelled to the "floating markets." Outside of Siem Reap is a floating village. The people who can not afford land live on boats on this lake that I believe is partially filled by the sea??? So they live on boats and have to change locations depending on the season and water levels. We drove past schools on the water where children paddle a thin boat to a bobbing classroom. The floating market themseleves were a bit of a letdown. 'Floating Market' to them meant old woman in a canoe type boat floating up to your boat and trying to sell you crackers and soda... hmmmmm not our idea of shopping. We left saying we saw it and headed back to town. We then grabbed some lunch and did some shopping. We all bought paintings representing Ankor Wat in some way. We then had dinner and I am sure went to bed by 10 pm because why??? We were travelling back to Bangkok (this time by two taxi cars) at 4am to catch a flight at 2 to an island and then a ferry to another island. (Yes that is car, van, plane, ferry in one day.... where's the train?)
Well I think that's all folks!
Today gift shopping in Bangkok, tomorrow Korea for luggage... and soon after home!
After the trek we spent a day in Bangkok sorting our travels to Cambodia, the islands, getting our necessary laundry done and shipping stuff home. The next day we were up early again to take the bus to Cambodia. The first half of the ride was a breeze in a nice large colourful tour bus. Then we were pressured to spend the extra baht to have the tour company look after our Cambodian visas. This is a scam that guidebooks did warn us about but for convience sake we went with it. At the border we carried our backpacks a couple of humid, sandy, hot blocks to walk across the border and stand in line to be stamped.
The border town was like many border towns in the world. A little grundgy, not much to see (apart from a large casino)and mainly street market stalls. Here we climbed onto a bus for the rough part of the journey; 160 km that takes 6-10 hours of dusty road that instantly turns to mud as it mingles with your sweat.
In all honesty it wasn't too bad. The windows were all open and we lucked out and had 2 seats to oursleves so we didn't have to share sweat with our neighbour. The ride in my opinion was really interesting. This part of Cambodia was really flat and you could see for miles (like back home). The houses that occasionally lined the road were all on stilts. It would seem that the under portion was the hub of life with an occasional hamock and BBQ underneath. As we got closer to Siem Reap the sad reality of Cambodia came into view. Many of the homes were flooded even though they were on stilts. Cambodia is also home to many large snakes and crocodiles so my imagination was going wild trying to picture what goes on in these people's daily lives... so different from my own . :)
I have to say I did love seeing the many people bathing in the ditches on the side of the road. I liked the simplicity of being able to be naturally naked and get clean without the social restrictions that make up our soceity. In writing this, I realize our social restrictions for the most part work in our soceity I just appreciate seeing a different view point working well too.
We arrived late at night around 10 pm and were deposited infront of a hotel and again pressured to stay there. We vetoed this as I was sure we could find a better place and had a tuk tuk drive us to a hotel in our guidebook.
It was a lovely place called the Jasmine, with nice air con rooms (Roberta and I lucked out with huge double or queen beds to ourselves HELLO LUXURY). The hotel also had a great chill area on a terrace complete with a pool table.
The next morning we sorted our travel back to Thailiand (yeah it still wasn't finished) anbd then that afternoon we found a stoner tuk tuk driver, Mr Bee, who we nick named "Joe Joe." He took us to all the major sites of Angkor Wat, minus Angkor itself. (We were saving that for Day 2).
The Angkors were unbelievable! Words can not express being able to freely walk around something so ancient and mysterious. Angkor is on of those places in the world where you can just feel the energy. The Angkor Empire ruled for 3 centuries and began in 862. The Empire itself span from Burma to Vietnam. The vast irrigation systems allowed this area to be densely populated (100 million when London was only 50 000) thus being a large centralized power.
We visited many temples/structures at all of them the masonary was truly advanced for the time and the relief sculptures were incredible. We climbed the steep worn steps of TaKeo a pyramid 50+m built between 968-1001. We battled the jungle at Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider.) During working order this Buddhist Temple took 80 000 people to maintain it! Now the trees are growing up through the stone and in some cases breaking it apart into piles of rubble.
We finished the day at Angkor Thom (1181-1219), a walled area 12 km by 8 km (i think) that held 3 temples, Elephant, Leper, and BAYON. Bayon is one of the most amazing structures in the world! There are 216 faces of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The faces are all sculpted with realistic detail and look as if each one holds a special secret. In reality I am sure they hold many secrets as they have watched the scenes of Cambodian life for a 1000+ years. ANother 11000 figures keep the faces company and tell stories of the time from kickboxing to cockfighting.
The final part of the day we joined the hundreds of others to climb a temple on a hill and watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. Sadly the sunset was hazy and a bit spoiled by all the people so we left early. We took the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap, and to 'bar street.' Here we were on a mission to try Cambodian BBQ. Cambodian BBQ is similar to Korean BBQ in that they bring you out raw meat and you cook it, yourself, on a grill that is set in your table. This was a step above though because around the grill was a basin of soup which the meat juice drained into the create a great yellow grass vegtable broth. Spencer and I shared this meal called the (I believe) Desgusto. It included beef, chicken, squid, crocodile, and snake meat. I have to say the snake meat was my favorite. It was super tender and melted in your mouth! After dinner it was early to bed as we were going to be up by 5 am again to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Sleepy eyed on a rickety tuk tuk attached to a motorbike with a questionable driver is a great way to wake oneself up. We drove to Angkor Wat and crossed the moat at twighlight. We then sat on the banks of a pond to watch the sun creep above the Wat's three magnificent peaks and reflect the scene a second time in the waters ahead. Again. we were not alone but everyone seemed to be under a quiet spell as nature's magnificence highlighted one of Man's great archietectural achievements.
The crowd then dispersed to walk the halls of this huge building built in honour of the Hindu God, Vishnu in adition to serving as a King's funerary temple. To my delight, even though there was quite a crowd at sunrise, once we entered the archways, halls, and walkways, we felt very alone. At one point I even seperated from our little group and felt like one of those true explorers that excitedly stumbles upon something truly amazing. The shadows in the halls, crevices, and peaks were incredible. Again there was also very intricate bas reliefs. I don't know how else to describe such a beautiful place.
After the temple we went to our hotel to grab some breakfast (breakfast was free so we had to go back :) We then travelled to the "floating markets." Outside of Siem Reap is a floating village. The people who can not afford land live on boats on this lake that I believe is partially filled by the sea??? So they live on boats and have to change locations depending on the season and water levels. We drove past schools on the water where children paddle a thin boat to a bobbing classroom. The floating market themseleves were a bit of a letdown. 'Floating Market' to them meant old woman in a canoe type boat floating up to your boat and trying to sell you crackers and soda... hmmmmm not our idea of shopping. We left saying we saw it and headed back to town. We then grabbed some lunch and did some shopping. We all bought paintings representing Ankor Wat in some way. We then had dinner and I am sure went to bed by 10 pm because why??? We were travelling back to Bangkok (this time by two taxi cars) at 4am to catch a flight at 2 to an island and then a ferry to another island. (Yes that is car, van, plane, ferry in one day.... where's the train?)
Well I think that's all folks!
Today gift shopping in Bangkok, tomorrow Korea for luggage... and soon after home!
Monday, October 6, 2008
Koh Tao- Diving
We took a ferry from Kophagan with the hopes of getting our diving licenses. Yes, the flatlanders who reached the great heights of Everest were now about to go below sea level in one trip! We got to the island jumped in the back of a pick up truck (Thailand taxi) and headed for the busy part of the island.
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Roberta and Spencer waited with the luggage while Sasha and I hunted down a bargain.. scuba lessons/accomodation in our price range. Sasha and I visited many a rooms, talked with many a scuba instructors ( hello- I'll share air with you the old fashioned way any day!). Our search ended at the Phoenix Ac Resort- nice air con large rooms for 4 nights, breakfasts, lessons, test, inpool instruction, and 2 days in the sea for $250.00.
The beaches on Koh Tao aren't large as it is mainly a diving island. That said the water was picturesque teal blue and so warm. It was a great beach day! Late afternoon we watched our first section of our diving video. We were then given texts and homework summaries. UGH!
Day three, more classroom- where we met our instructor, Sam. Super nice guy who was straight forward, clear, and put us all at ease. That afternoon we were introduced to all the equipment/safety procedures with another guy Clause. Clause was great; a older long haired, tattooed, Swedish island man who was a little loopy but under the water made perfect sense.
By no means was my pool experience a graceful affair. I was a like a blubbering stoned walrus. My legs, arms, and occasionally big booty were flailing everywhere. By the end, we all got the 'hang' of it but I can't say I was confident. I have decided I am a land goer. After the pool we finished the video/ classroom portion.
Then had dinner and watched a movie (many places show movies on big screens right on he beach... a drive in only 100 times better.)
Day 3
We wrote our tests- Bert and I got 100% whoop whoop. Spencer and Sasha very close... and so we were almost licensed! We then took a boat out, set up our equipment and jumped in.
Sam led us to an area where we could stand and one more time we demonstrated the skills (clearing the masks, retrieving breathing etc.) Tiny fish swam at our feet. I freaked myself out when I couldn't clear my mask and had to surface. Ugh! I could do it perfectly in the pool! I got back under control, descended and luckily had no more trouble.
We followed Sam past different corals, schools of silver fish, a couple great rainbow fish, and a few other pretty ones I have no idea what to call. Roberta truly was the winner of the day as she is afraid of fish! In Korea if there was a fish tank outside a restaurant she had to walk/ look away and here she was swimming along side them! ASSSSAHH!
We surfaced, got back on the boat, switched our tanks and got ready for dive #2. This time we ascended alongside a slimy rope. With our buoyancy more intact it did feel at times like we were flying in a group. Yeah Canadian Geese! We swam around the Japanese Rock Gardens which is a different reef. Again, there wasn't too many fish but the ones we saw were incredible. I think I was too busy thinking about staying buoyant enough not to bulldoze around and wreck the reef to really be observant of the many different types of fish. We finished this day with a buddy ascent (in case we are ever in a situation where someone is as Sam says "a moron' and runs out of air.) The ride back I think was one of pride that we did it with no screw ups.
That night we had an amazing BBQ of skewers of seafood/beef/chicken and bake potatoes cooked where?? but the beach of course and headed to bed early as we had to be ready to dive at 6:30 am.
Day 4- Dive Day
We woke up early and groggily walked to the beach. There we met Heather, the videographer, who excitedly jumped around with a large camera in our face. Ohhh boy me + no coffee + morning + idea of bathing suit/wet suit + camera = not a happy camper. She was a great motivator though and we did appreciate her energy. We loaded the little longboat with equipment and then sailed to the larger boat, we would drive to our spots.
Set up went better, we did our buddy checks, and then plunged in. Breathing Darth Vader style was underway and we descended using another slimy rope. Spencer had a bit more trouble equalizing his ears so we were on the rope for quite some time. I have been feeling nauseous all of Thailand (malaria pills) and coupled with sea sickness and a bouncy rope I wasn't the greatest myself. I kept telling myself it was ok to be sick in my mask it would come out--- but then I couldn't help but think what kind of fish food scene that would create! I ended up not making a huge scene and we were off.
The reef was a lot bigger and deeper and we got to see a cool blue spotted sting ray and many different fish including the territorial "Trigger fish" that is known to bit and butt you if you get too close to his territory. (I didn't like him and he was big brown and ugly) We swam around in a group and I was thankful that my buddy/brother did many "a ok" hand signals to me to make sure I was alright. It was funny when I would loose sight of him for a moment and then find him right above my head. Weightlessness is a interesting feeling. Also the concept of time/depth was really hard to comprehend.. we did have guages but without them I could easily see how someone could get lost/loose track of time.
We surfaced and then did one final dive in another location. This dive we did some more skills took our masks off underwater (I did it without panicking... good thing too as i was too deep to surface and freak out) and some hovering/somersault silly skills.
We finished and made it home by noon where we grabbed some lunch/breakfast and went swimming. That evening we watched our video and surprisingly saw that we truly did look like divers. That night we celebrated on the beach with some people from our resort. Roberta and I had a blast dancing in the waves and then headed to bed.
The Last couple days here in Thailand we have moved yet again but to a quieter cove on the island where we lazily lay in the sun and swim. Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok to shop for a bit and then back to Korea for a little.. and home!!! Ahhhh
so I guess see you soonish.
XO
Thailand
Thailand has proven to be a true beach holiday destination.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
All our worries, thoughts, and in some cases inhibitions were carried by the wind across the teal blue waters and deposited somewhere in the dark blue abyss. The largest concerns have been: how to tan the reflecting large white middle I developed in Korea, not to overdose on fresh blended fruit shakes or amazing Thai food (mmm Pad Thai) and how to avoid the island mopeds on the bar/restaurant pedestrian street.
Our island adventure began with a flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui. The airport was the cutest island airport with quaint little wooden huts leading the 7 steps to our luggage pick up. From there, we took a short bus to our ferry port to our first true destination Koh Phanagan.
Koh Phanagan's reputation is that of "Party Island." This is the place where the Full Moon party is held. A Beach party that accomodates 10 000 - 60 000 alcohol/redbull filled intoxicated individuals. Alas as luck would have it we were no where near the full moon so our intentions were much more subdued; find a quiet beach and RELAX. Lonely Planet referenced, we had our beach in mind and as a turn in luck would have it a group of 8 Malaysians on our ferry were headed to the same exact location. This was a great coincidence as this beach/cove was not the most popular, and the ring leader of the group, Top, was part Thai. We all of a sudden had friends, our very own interpreter and more importantly barterer.
We all scrambled into a large pimped out in leather van cab- where the sauce began flowing compliments of the already half-sacked Malaysians. The winding , up and down, island dirt roads truly became a roller coaster.
We got to the cove dropped our bags in a pile on the beach and the nominated few went to find a beach front bungalow in our price range. Half an hour later, we had a place for 500 Bhat a night and a 2 minute walk from the beach hidden in the jungle.
Night one we did standing speech introductions over a fresh seafood dinner and got to know our little group of 12 better literally on the beach by lantern/candlelight.
Day 2 we woke up and headed straight for the beach. Waded around and did a whole lot of nothing. I think our biggest accomplishment was finding a place to get our laundry done.
That night after a little peer pressure from the Malaysians we decided we would try out the 'Black Moon Party.' There are 3 kinds of moon parties, full, half, and black moon. Really it is just an excuse to party.
After 'hoing and humming' we agreed to go. We all met on the beach and boarded a long boat taxi. It was dark and the stars were all out as we slowly manuvered around the shores of the island. As the boat made small iridescent waves (glowing jellyfish) I couldn't help but think how cool it was to use this means of transport vs a cab like back home.
We got to the place where the Full Moon party is actually held and had dinner here. Many laughs were had especially when one of the big Malaysian guys took a step and almost went through the board walk floor.
After dinner we got in a real van cab and arrived at the black moon party. It was insanely decorated with black lights, suspended neon art work, and enough techno vibes to blow your ears off. I am not a fan of drugs/raves myself but I could see how this place could encourage those that like that sort of thing. (I am happy to report that NO drugs were taken by any of these Canadians)
Alcohol was consumed though... and I think Spencer and Sasha really did it up Black moon style! We all were dancing around Spencer equipped with hand lamp and all of us with a glowing wand. There were fire shows on the beach and my pyro brother even got in there and did a pretty good job! Ohhh dear! Nothing was lost though mom.
We left at a decent hour some of us in better shape than others. Our mode of transportation home was more of a refugee/escapee style crammed into the back of a pick up truck. At least the fresh air was good!
The last day on this island was understandably quite low key. We swam and then had a quiet dinner where the whole group tiredly mingled.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Teahouses- The Personal Side of Everest
Teahouses are each day's journey's end. We are welcomed outside each unique home by our two lovely porters, always smiling, curly haired, Da Wa, and humble almost mute, Nim Sung Gay. Usually they have our bags already neatly laid in our double share private rooms. These rooms vary in luxury but always include a bed, mattress, blanket, and pillow. Not much action happens here (literally above 4000 m any 'action' is not reccommended) all the action takes place in the dinning room.
The dinning room is the hub of a teahouse. Along all four walls is bench like seating with colourful tibetan coqueted carpets as cushions. Tables sit infront of the benches and in the center a small wood burning stove creates warmth. After a long day's hike this is where all nationalities seek common comforts. A hot pot of lemon tea, some great food (plates of carbohydrates - no meat the whole trip due to poor storage) and an enegetic card game. Endorphone filled good cheer generally generates much laughter that trancends language barriers and the smell of sweaty feet.
On one occasion our little group mingled with the Korean entourage that planned on summitting Everest. They had yaks, 200 porters, camera equipment, and enough beatiful North Face equipment to clothe an army. They would plug in a laptop and ROberta and I wee transported back to Korea with the latest "K-pop" songs. Roberta and I did not make any good friends with the Koreans themselves but the Nepalese ambassadors that were with them were introduced to the card games "shit head" and "pig."
Another memorabe night at a tea house involved me teasing our porter Da Wa that he should dance. The outcome to my shame involved 7 Nepalese porters siging a taditional love/folk song and clapping while I had to jig around. Ohhh DEAR!! I think the German family in the corner had never seen anything like that before!
Along the trail we also made friends with others who were doing the same route as us. THere was James and Malvina from Ireland. THey gave us great advice about our upcoming THailand trip. THey were so down to Earth and shared our passion for travel/food that it was always a joy to speak with them. THen there was Kiwi, Pat, who I think was part super hero as nothing seemed to bother him. He could trek the whole day, eat lunch and then trek further the same day just to acclimatize. He was also great for a good game of cards.
The ones we bonded with the most I would have to say were our porters. Da wa and someone were always laughing about something. He played many a card game with us and was always saying midly crude things in Nepalese. ONe night I was playing cards with a group of 6 porters while Da wa tried his best to Marry me off. The most special night would have to have been the last night when Dawa invited us to his home in LUkla to meet his family.
Dawa lived on the third floor of a building in a small room. THe room consisted of a wood burning stove in a blackened corner for the kitchen a bed in the other corner and a mat on the floor. Here is wife, 11 month old, and 6 year old all lived. His daughters were adorable. His wife gave us tea and Da wa being the entertainer he is had three friends over also. At one point he literally had them all lined up and asked me or Spencer which one I should marry. He was totally joking... but what does one say?? THen the dancing/siging began me and da wa danced while everyone dang. THis time I was more successful and got one of the random boys dancing and Spencer and Sasha. It truly was a special evening. We gave our porters our gifts (things we didn't need) and then they topped us off in setiment the following morning when they gave us lucky prayer scarves. We were blessed to have such fine porters and we will never forget them!
The dinning room is the hub of a teahouse. Along all four walls is bench like seating with colourful tibetan coqueted carpets as cushions. Tables sit infront of the benches and in the center a small wood burning stove creates warmth. After a long day's hike this is where all nationalities seek common comforts. A hot pot of lemon tea, some great food (plates of carbohydrates - no meat the whole trip due to poor storage) and an enegetic card game. Endorphone filled good cheer generally generates much laughter that trancends language barriers and the smell of sweaty feet.
On one occasion our little group mingled with the Korean entourage that planned on summitting Everest. They had yaks, 200 porters, camera equipment, and enough beatiful North Face equipment to clothe an army. They would plug in a laptop and ROberta and I wee transported back to Korea with the latest "K-pop" songs. Roberta and I did not make any good friends with the Koreans themselves but the Nepalese ambassadors that were with them were introduced to the card games "shit head" and "pig."
Another memorabe night at a tea house involved me teasing our porter Da Wa that he should dance. The outcome to my shame involved 7 Nepalese porters siging a taditional love/folk song and clapping while I had to jig around. Ohhh DEAR!! I think the German family in the corner had never seen anything like that before!
Along the trail we also made friends with others who were doing the same route as us. THere was James and Malvina from Ireland. THey gave us great advice about our upcoming THailand trip. THey were so down to Earth and shared our passion for travel/food that it was always a joy to speak with them. THen there was Kiwi, Pat, who I think was part super hero as nothing seemed to bother him. He could trek the whole day, eat lunch and then trek further the same day just to acclimatize. He was also great for a good game of cards.
The ones we bonded with the most I would have to say were our porters. Da wa and someone were always laughing about something. He played many a card game with us and was always saying midly crude things in Nepalese. ONe night I was playing cards with a group of 6 porters while Da wa tried his best to Marry me off. The most special night would have to have been the last night when Dawa invited us to his home in LUkla to meet his family.
Dawa lived on the third floor of a building in a small room. THe room consisted of a wood burning stove in a blackened corner for the kitchen a bed in the other corner and a mat on the floor. Here is wife, 11 month old, and 6 year old all lived. His daughters were adorable. His wife gave us tea and Da wa being the entertainer he is had three friends over also. At one point he literally had them all lined up and asked me or Spencer which one I should marry. He was totally joking... but what does one say?? THen the dancing/siging began me and da wa danced while everyone dang. THis time I was more successful and got one of the random boys dancing and Spencer and Sasha. It truly was a special evening. We gave our porters our gifts (things we didn't need) and then they topped us off in setiment the following morning when they gave us lucky prayer scarves. We were blessed to have such fine porters and we will never forget them!
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